The Chinese capital, Beijing, is home to 22 million people and monuments that carry the weight and awe of 5,000 years of Chinese history: the Great Wall, the Forbidden City, Tiananmen Square. Yet a softer, warmer Beijing lives just beyond them.
It’s a place I return to constantly now; a place that feels like home. I was born here, grew up in Hong Kong and came to know the city through summers and winters after my parents moved back. Between the towers that have sprung up, the hutongs hold on: grey-brick alleyways, hidden teahouses, liangmian and dumplings at every turn and ‘Beijing bikini men’ (with shirts rolled up in the summer heat) playing chess. Here, you’ll find a blend of soul and authenticity that is hard to be replaced.
Off the tourist track, I’ve shared my picks for 72 hours in the city to feed both soul and stomach.
Day One
Check Into Your Hotel. I insist you stay in a hutong – Beijing’s alleyway neighbourhoods with traditional Chinese courtyards, where the elderly play chess on the streets and teashop owners chat with you next to songbirds. In the Nanluoguxiang area of Dongcheng there’s BaiTree Art Hotel, with its traditional art-themed lobby and offering free laundry and airy rooms, making it an easy and convenient stay. If you have a higher budget, the LeZai Nanluo Boutique is a renovated hutong with stylish Chinese furniture and a sumptuous breakfast buffet.
Wander The Alleys Of Nanluoguxiang. Both hotels are a stone’s throw from this long street full of food stalls, and shops where you can buy traditional crafts and nicknacks. This touristy spot is definitely worth a stroll, but don’t miss the off-streets. Check out Penghao Theatre, which has a delightful cafe and a Chinese-English library of theatre books, and see if there are shows scheduled. Baochao Hutong is a favourite street of mine to walk through for a slower, more intimate glimpse of local life.
Have A Late Lunch At Zhang Mama. A breezy 20-minute walk takes you to a local favourite restaurant for what Chinese call ‘home cooking’ – stir fries, spicy Sichuan food and Beijing cold dish specialities like liang fen (cold mung bean noodles). I say go later, because there’s usually a long queue at midday.
Explore The Houhai Lakes District. Walk off your meal (or cycle) to these three lakes , which have surrounding cafes, nightlife and little boats to rent. The small and intimate Soong Ching Ling Residence and Museum is an amazing way to witness some contemporary Chinese history through the fascinating life of Sun Yat Sen’s wife – known as the ‘Mother of Modern China’.
Dip Into Hot Pot For Dinner At Jubaoyuan, a restaurant famous for its Chinese Muslim-style tender lamb and broth.
Enjoy Jazz By The Lake with a cold beer at the charming East Shore Jazz Cafe, launched by legendary jazzman Liu Yuan, where there’s nightly music from local artists.
Day Two
Start Your Morning At The Historic Drum And Bell Towers. The drum and bell were used in the dynasty times to announce the time. Now, between 8-10am, the courtyard between the towers is a lovely place for families to hang. The famous Chinese phenomenon of guangchang wu (public square dancing) is alive here, as well as people kicking jian zi (feathered shuttlecocks) and dancing with Chinese dragon ribbons.
Zen Out At Stillwater Cafe. For a moment of zen and tea culture, and perhaps some morning journalling, take a short walk to this serene spot. The pineapple oolong was a lovely surprise, and the beauty of the traditional Chinese architecture (plus roof seating) is soothing to the spirit.
Eat Beijing-Famous Noodles For Lunch. Head to the Michelin Guide-recommended Fangzhuanchang No.69 Zhajiangmian for one thing only: award-winning Zhajiangmian, noodles with a salty-sweet fermented soybean sauce. Get comfy with strangers sharing your table. Pro tip: get the Beijing traditional yoghurt to drink with it.
Buy Chinese Art Supplies At Liulichang Street. Calligraphy and ink painting is so central to Chinese culture that the key supplies (brushes, ink, inkstone and paper) are called the ‘four treasures of the study’. Liulichang Street is an arts market street dating back to the Yuan dynasty, where artists and scholars (such as Qi Baishi) gathered to buy their goods. Here, explore the exquisite products in Rongbaozhai, a 350-year-old shop with a gallery attached.
Immerse Yourself In Nature At Ritan Park. With its sweeping lotus pond framed by willow trees, this is my favourite park in Beijing. Take a taxi here and spend an hour or two soaking up the natural scenery.
Eat Well At Ruide Roast Duck. A short walk from Ritan Park, Ruide serves up juicy duck, carved up to your table with paper-thin rice wraps, thinly sliced cucumber and scallion, and hoisin sauce. Ruide has the extra special touch of plating your meal in a rose shape – it’s so pretty, you pause just a little bit before gobbling it up.
Listen To Live Music At Modernista. Head back to your Nanluguxiang hotel for a disco nap, and then walk a few minutes down to this two-floor bar and club to dance and sing the night away. There’s always live music in this Beijing nightlife mainstay, and a friendly mix of locals and expats.
Day Three
Grab A Restorative Tea At Changchuntang Tea of Seasons. Instead of getting just boba, try a Traditional Chinese Medicine (TCM) tea – which have become a recent trend, using various herbs and foods for holistic wellbeing. This tea shop is attached to a pharmacy, and makes drinks with goji berries, mung beans and ginseng to help calm inflammation and heat in the body during summer. (Note: the shop is not on Google Maps yet, so the pin is for the meat bun shop next door.)
Eat Beijing’s Best Dumplings at Xian Lao Man. Take a short walk from the tea shop to this staple restaurant for lunch. I invite you to explore some new dumplings (like tomato and egg) as well as the good old pork and chive signatures.
Go For A Stroll (And Maybe A Dip) At The LiangMa Canal. Take a taxi ride to the revitalised 10-kilometre canal, which has become a lovely and lush river walk, far from its polluted past. It’s also a great place to enjoy the qifen, the energy, of Beijing, where – no matter what temperature it is – you’ll find jovial elderly men swimming in its waters.
Pleasure-Max At Shui Guo Spa. As your final stop, take a taxi to Shui Guo Spa, the famous 24 hour spa that you pay $40 USD to spend 16 hours. As well as soaking pools and saunas, it offers unlimited drinks and fresh fruit, a restaurant, a reading library, bar games, a cinema, nap pods and a crafting corner. Come as you are: they give you the cutest fruit pyjamas, slippers and socks for your stay. Enjoy pampering yourself, exploring the extensive restaurant menu and pleasure-maxxing, Beijing style.
