The energy is full-throttle from the moment you land in Hong Kong – the endless drumming of feet on the pavement, the bright lights, the lightning-fast subway system. We don’t do anything by halves here. Once a British colony and now part of China, the city is full of contrasts. Here, you can find centuries-old traditions in the shadow of futuristic skyscrapers, while a breezy waterfront walk in the morning can give way to an evening of world-class, high-octane bar-hopping. Along the way you might spot a queue at a dai pai dong (street hawker stall) that demands investigation, or a handwritten sign pointing you up to a residential building that conceals an independent bookstore.
Consider this travel guide a set of insider’s notes, curated from years of navigating the city’s streets. A series of suggestions to help you fall in love with Hong Kong as a local would: with appetite, curiosity and a willingness to wander.
Day 1
Check Into Upper House. While it’s located in Admiralty in the middle of the city (putting everything within easy reach), this stylish spot is perched slightly above the hubbub. The rooms are, for Hong Kong, uncharacteristically spacious. Coupled with their serene, spa-like design, this hotel makes an ideal respite from the city.
Start The Day With breakfast at Levain in Quarry Bay. Take the MTR from your hotel to this eastern neighbourhood to find the HQ of this homegrown bakery, order some delicious sourdough toast and fuel up for the day ahead.
Get Your Art Fix At Para Site. A five-minute walk from Levain, this is one of Asia’s most established independent, non-profit art spaces – important in a largely commercial market. It’s a vital institution for sparking cross-cultural conversations between new and mid-career artists.
Take A Walk along the East Coast Boardwalk to lunch. From Para Site, walk down to Healthy Street East, where you can access this waterfront promenade, and head west (turning left when you’re facing Victoria Harbour). It’s a glorious stretch and the harbour breeze helps to cut through the inevitable humidity. When you reach the Provident Garden complex, it’s time to head inland.
Eat Old-School Noodles At Ha Ming Kee, a legendary spot for its bouncy, springy fish balls, made fresh daily, now with four sites across the city. Whichever noodle bowl you choose, be sure to add a side of crispy fish skins. Pro-tip: dip them into your soup for just a split second for a hint of the umami broth while retaining their crunch. And spice fiends, don’t skip the fiery chill crisp.
Discover A Village In The City In Tai Hang. Take a leisurely tram ride from lunch to Tin Hau. From there, it’s a 10-minute walk into Tai Hang, a village of tenement buildings laid out in a neat grid. If you love baked goods, you’re in for a treat: some of Hong Kong’s best viennoiseries are at Plumcot, and Cookie Vission is known for its brownies and cookies. For a caffeine break, step through the antique doors of SonneCAD, or if there isn’t much of a queue, grab a Hong Kong-style milk tea at classic dai pai dong (open-air food stall) Bing Kee – strong, silky and the perfect antidote to jet lag. Gallery space The Shophouse and its retail space otherthings by The Shophouse are also in the area and can be visited by appointment.
Get Your Bao Fix At Little Bao. A quick cab ride will get you to Causeway Bay, where chef May Chow whips up steamed burger-like buns filled with everything from the classic grilled pork belly to ice cream. Get some Szechuan fried chicken to share, too.
Sip With Japanese Precision At Executive Bar. Tucked away in one of the many high-rises in Causeway Bay, this is a masterclass in Japanese mixology. The focus is on fresh, seasonal fruits; ask for their recommendation and you’ll be served a cocktail that’s as beautiful as it is balanced.
End The Night With Supper At Hidden. A short walk will take you to this kushiage (deep-fried Japanese skewer) spot, a late-night favourite of those in the know. The scallop topped with salmon roe is the perfect antidote for post-alcohol hunger pangs.
Day 2
Cross The Harbour, riding the MTR to Sham Shui Po. Seconds from the station, grab breakfast either standing in an alleyway at Hop Yik Tai for the silkiest cheung fun (rice paper rolls) slathered in sesame and hoisin sauces, or sit across local uncles and aunties on rickety stools at the 1960s cha chaan teng (local-style caff) Sun Heung Yuen for milk tea and an egg sandwich.
Dive Into The Heart Of Kowloon with a stroll down Sham Shui Po’s Ap Liu Street. Weave through flea-market stalls overflowing with vintage electronics, then stroll past Ki Lung Street (button street), Nam Cheong Street (ribbon street), and Yu Chau Street (bead street) – remnants of Hong Kong's cottage-industry past. This neighbourhood is also ground-zero for new creative energy. Just minutes away in a listed heritage building is artist-run gallery Noii.:arthouse, ceramics workshop and gallery Mudheytong and White Noise – an audiophile’s dream record store. If you need an espresso in between, Sham Shui Po has no shortage of choices, but Cafe Sausalito is an eternal favourite.
Grab A Bowl Of Noodles at Lau Sum Kee for lunch. Take a short walk to this wonton noodle institution on Kweilin Street, one of the last in the city to still knead its noodles with a giant bamboo pole – a traditional method that gives them their bouncy, al dente texture.
Find Souvenirs In Mong Kok. Hop on the MTR there, and you’ll find Hak Dei a cornucopia of nostalgic homeware brands and designs, from ceramic rice bowls seen in every Hong Kong grandma’s kitchen to enamel mugs emblazoned with vintage logos. It’s a great place to find a piece of the city to take home. Just around the corner is Boundary Bookstore, an independent spot that showcases local authors. There is a healthy collection of English-language titles by authors from or affiliated to Hong Kong, too, as well as one-of-a-kind book-adjacent souvenirs.
Embrace The Shopping Frenzy at Mong Kok’s famous shopping hubs. There’s Sneaker Street (Nelson Street) for the latest kicks, plus the organised chaos of the open-air knick-knack stalls at Ladies’ Market (Tung Choi Street). For an Asian skincare haul, ascend into the fluorescent-lit Lung Fung Mall or Sasa.
Feast On Quintessential Cantonese At London Chinese Restaurant. Simply walk back out onto Nathan Road to find this beloved four-storey behemoth for skilfully executed Hong Kong-style Cantonese dishes. Order its crispy chicken: a shatteringly thin-skinned, golden-brown masterpiece. Few Cantonese restaurants of this scale exist anymore – ride the elevator up and drink in the energy (and the tea).
Sip Cocktails On A Rooftop at Terrible Baby, a five-minute cab ride away. This sprawling, plant-filled terrace is the place to sip a creative cocktail and reflect on your day in Kowloon.
Day 3
Get Your Breakfast From A Dim Sum Trolley at Luk On Kui in Sheung Wan. Share a table with a local and order a pot of tea with a couple of steaming hot baskets.
Decompress With A Coffee At Hara Kako, a two-minute walk away. This artsy spot does excellent single-origin brews and has and a chilled lounge upstairs.
Take A Walk Up Hollywood Road, where you’ll find a private collection of Chinese antique furniture at Liang Yi Museum (make sure to book ahead). Right behind it, Cat Street is home to quirky finds, such as vintage Hong Kong pop posters and Mao figurines.
Stop In for Lunch At Mora. Amid the bric-a-brac on Cat Street is this elegant, Michelin-starred bistro by renowned local chef Vicky Lau, which celebrates all things soy. After the five-course tasting menu, you’ll never call tofu bland again.
Explore The Creative Hub Of PMQ. A short walk further along Hollywood Road is the former police married quarters, now a hive of local design. Make time for Qipology for modern cheongsam (classical form-fitting Chinese dresses), Glocal Mahjong for a fun take on the Chinese tile game and don’t miss Taste Library for food books.
Then, Choose Your Afternoon Indulgence. If your skin needs a pick-me-up, book a 30-minute treatment at INUF, the cult homegrown holistic skincare brand – its regenerative PDRN ampoule is legendary. Alternatively, spend your afternoon exploring Tai Kwun, the colonial-era central police station turned heritage and arts centre. Tour the old jail cells and check out the rotating exhibitions at JC Contemporary, as well as the books at design publisher Taschen’s first Asian flagship store.
Have A Tipple Nearby. Now that you’re in the Central/Soho bar zone, there are plenty to choose from. Try Bourke’s for a buzzy wine bar experience inspired by Melbourne’s best watering holes, listening bar Paragon for sophisticated cocktails, Kinsman for an exploration of Asian liquors such as Baijiu, or COA for artisanal agave spirits (think tequila and mezcal).
Have One Last Dinner To Remember At Wing (if you booked in advance, that is). It’s around a 10 to 15 minute walk from the Central bar zone and promises one of the most luxurious and innovative modern Chinese meals in the city. If you can’t get a table, try Cheong Gor on D’Aguilar Street for fiery, wok-driven classics. The slightly charred flavours you’ll taste here are the very essence of Cantonese cooking.
Finish With Drinks At Bar Leone. Take advantage of the steep incline from Wing (or take the Mid-Levels Escalator from Cheong Gor) to walk off dinner, or hop in a cab. It’s worth the (short) journey – we’ve saved the best for last. Currently ranked number one by the World’s 50 Best Bars, Leone is a celebration of Italian drinking culture. The vibe is unpretentious and joyous, and the food is as legendary as the cocktails. If you can squeeze in one last bite, pair the mortadella sandwich and the smoked olives with a negroni, and raise a toast to 72 perfect hours in Hong Kong.
