72 Hours In Porto: Where To Eat, Drink & Wander In Portugal’s Second City

Porto is a picturesque patchwork of cobbled streets, colourful buildings, grand churches and azulejo tilework. It might be Portugal’s second-largest city, but it’s remarkably walkable. Give yourself time to explore its Unesco World Heritage-listed centre. You’ll find yourself constantly stopping to admire what, to locals, are simply apartment blocks; snapping pictures of the ornate doorways and facades. Porto is a city that rewards looking up.

I was lucky enough to arrive in July, during one of its busiest weeks. São João festivities, a centuries-old celebration of St John the Baptist, transformed the streets into one giant party, BABELL literary festival drew writers and readers from around the world and football fans gathered in squares to watch Portugal play on giant screens.  

The more I explored, the more I realised this sense of community wasn’t just reserved for festivals and celebrations. It felt like an extension of Porto itself: a city with a real beating heart, where people need little excuse to gather over good food and great wine. Here’s how to get the most out of 72 hours in Porto.

Find your base. If it’s your first time in Porto, stay near the city’s historic centre in Baixa, or in Ribeira where you’ll find postcard-worthy views over the Douro River. Both districts give you easy access to just about everything worth seeing.  

Check in to The Editory Boulevard Aliados Hotel in Baixa for a boutique hotel with soul; the Vignette Collection Casa da Companhia Hotel & Spa for its refined rooms and rooftop pool; or Porto AS 1829 Hotel for charming interiors and a prime location in the city centre.

Start your day at Early in Cedofeita – a great spot to bookmark for brunch. But this morning, we’re taking coffee to go, as you make your way down the road to…

Get in line for breakfast at Época. There’ll likely be a queue forming for when it opens at 10am, which is more than justified. Get fluffy scrambled eggs and house-brewed mint and fennel tea, or try its famous çilbir Turkish eggs, served at a large communal table beneath swaying paper lanterns. Note: the cafe is closed on weekends, so this is one for Monday to Friday.

Make a literary pitstop at Livraria Lello, which – just a short walk away – is one of the world’s most beautiful bookstores: the sweeping crimson wooden staircase and stained-glass skylight will draw you in, the extensive book collection will make you stay. Buy a ticket online for a dedicated slot, or get one at the door, redeemable against the price of a book. A highlight: the guided tour of 200 books from Amy Winehouse’s personal collection (you’ll need to book and pay for this in advance). And don't miss the Manifesto Library, curated by Dua and the Service95 Book Club.

Stop for lunch around the corner at Solar Moinho de Vento for hearty, home-cooked Portuguese food. Arrive hungry for generous portions of fried sardines and whichever rice or brothy dish is on the menu that day. The kind of long lunch that may require a nap once you’ve settled the bill.  

Sample some port with a tasting at Sandeman – no trip to Porto is complete without one. The fortified wine named after the city has been shipped from the Douro Valley through Porto for centuries. Cross the river to Sandeman’s historic waterfront cellars in Vila Nova de Gaia, where you’ll sample wines and tour its rows of oak casks and bottles, some of which that have been aging for more than 50 years.  

Indulge in a pastel de nata at Manteigaria, back in Ribeira. Delivered fresh from the oven throughout the day, these rich, creamy custard tarts with consistently crisp, flaky pastry attract queues throughout the week – but it's worth it. Best enjoyed warm, on the street, just seconds after purchase!

Round off an afternoon of local cuisine at Capela Incomum, a wine bar housed inside a restored 19th-century chapel on the edge of Miragaia. Order a few glasses of low-intervention Portuguese wine alongside cheeses, cured meats, codfish croquettes and the sirloin steak with Azorean cheese sandwich. Not ready for the night to end? 

Head to Bar Aduela for more great wine and infectious energy – people will be dancing out from the bar onto the cobbled streets into the early hours.

Wake up to excellent coffee at SO Coffee Roasters, which has outposts in Vitória and Miragaia. It champions premium Portuguese roasts, although the unexpected standout was a chocolate chip cookie.

For breakfast, head to Bonfim. Here, A Certain Cafe is an airy space with a Scandi aesthetic, streams of natural light and bistro-style seating. Expect unfussy breakfast classics, executed well, and decent filter coffee. Make sure you keep an eye out for guest chefs, events and foodie pop ups they regularly host.  

Have a mooch at STYX Vintage, along Rua do Heroísmo. When I arrived, the chair by the front door was draped in golden hair extensions, like the fair-haired version of The Grudge. I knew I was in the right place. A rail running the length of the store is filled with expertly curated designer and secondhand pieces – think Issey Miyake, Cop Copine, Levi’s. Its sunglasses selection is particularly enviable.

Swap the city for the seaside and head west to Leça da Palmeira in a taxi or Uber (you can hop on a bus but it will involve a change). Here, lunch at the two Michelin-starred Casa de Chá da Boa Nova awaits – reservations are essential. This Álvaro Siza Vieira-designed building is perched on the rocks overlooking the Atlantic. The honey-toned timber interiors and views are reason enough to visit, but the seafood-leaning menu follows suit. Every dish is thoughtful, artfully presented and delicious.

Wind down for the afternoon at Piscina das Marés, Just a 15-minute walk away, these outdoor saltwater swimming pools, also designed by Siza, are carved into the rocky coastline. Entry is from €5 on weekdays, €9 at the weekends, and there’s a cafe, changing rooms and sun loungers. Park up with a book or enjoy a dip in the crystal-clear, shimmering pools. 

Head back into town for a light dinner at Pedro dos Frangos in Baixa. It’s known for peri-peri rotisserie chicken and chips – simple, no-frills dining at its best. Grab it to go or head upstairs to eat in.

Stop for a nightcap at Fiasco back in Bonfim (also home to 8mm Records Store, which is open till 12am if you want a late-night browse). Its interiors will make you feel like you’ve stepped into the Red Room from Twin Peaks (in the best way). The drinks menu is as extensive as the DJ’s repertoire, which traverses from ’80s classics and Portuguese funk to jazz and indie.

Fuel up for your final day at Pronto Porto. It’s open only on Sundays, from 8am until 3pm (or till everything sells out) and serves a different breakfast every week. Thankfully, the cherry pie is always on the menu. (Visiting on another day? Now’s your time to brunch at Early.)

Soak up the architecture of Porto’s churches. Start with the Church of Saint Ildefonso in the Sé district, adorned with more than 11,000 blue-and-white azulejos (tiles) depicting scenes from the saint’s life. From there, wander into the centre to Porto Cathedral, a 12th-century Romanesque landmark. Its cool granite interiors offer a welcome respite from the heat. Finish at Igreja do Carmo, a Rococo church best known for its exquisite tiled facade.  

Immerse yourself in art at Fundação de Serralves. West from the city centre (take the 207 bus), lies one of Portugal’s leading contemporary art institutions. Set across 18 hectares of beautifully landscaped gardens, it’s home to Álvaro Siza Vieira’s Museum of Contemporary Art, the pink Art Deco Serralves Villa (where an exhibition by Jenny Holzer is now on show) and a sculpture-filled park that’s just as rewarding to wander as the exhibitions themselves. 

For dinner, you have two options. Pata Gorda, a 10 minute stroll from Fundação de Serralves, puts a modern spin on Portuguese cooking. Or, head back into the city centre and track down a traditional bifana – tender pork in a garlicky, lightly spiced sauce, tucked inside a soft, crusty bread roll. (Try Casa Guedes Progresso.)  

End your final night at Sigilo Beer Garden. Hidden away on a quiet street, it’s a charming spot to enjoy a beer or glass of wine. If the weather is on your side, head straight for the courtyard garden and toast to three unforgettable days in Porto.