Every New Yorker (like me) knows that in order to truly appreciate the uncontainable energy and chaotic ebullience of New York City, you have to leave it every once in a while. The rat race wears you down, and what better escape than to briefly surrender to the allure of a slower lifestyle in Upstate New York? There, you can get your hands dirty while breathing in clean air – all just a couple of hours north of the city.
That promise of space, slowness and renewal has long drawn city dwellers Upstate – but 2020 ushered in a fresh wave of newcomers to the Lower Catskills and Hudson Valley. Taking advantage of lower home prices during the pandemic, many traded metropolitan hustle for something less gruelling. While the Hudson Valley has nurtured an artistic culture for decades, in recent years it has become a cultural beacon, attracting creators of every medium – painters, ceramicists, musicians, filmmakers and designers – alongside a vibrant food scene that includes farm-to-table restaurants, natural wine bars and experimental bakeries.
Each pocket of Upstate New York has its own rhythm, but for now, I’m taking you to Hudson – a gorgeous town perched on the east side of the river. Hudson is steeped in history: it was the first chartered city after the Revolutionary War, and the town is chock-full of architectural gems, from gingerbread-trimmed Victorian homes to stately rowhouses. For years, it’s been a haven for New Yorkers in search of a slower pace, cultivating a community of creative thinkers.
Despite my loyalty to NYC, I can’t deny that one of life’s great joys is hopping into a rental car (or, in my case, a friend’s), blasting Neil Youn, and heading Upstate for a weekend escape. After more trips than I can count, I’ve gathered a lineup of Favorito towns, spots, and stops that I always come back to – think of this as a lovingly curated rundown for your next trip (or maybe even the first!) to the Hudson Valley.
Day 1
On Your Way Up... Take a 20-minute detour to Callisto Farms to fill your lungs with clean air, soak in the terroir of the region – and, of course, meet the goats. Spread across 63 acres, this renovated barn and beautifully kept grounds have become a hub for pop-ups, photo shoots and other creative endeavours. From the vision of powerhouse designer and real estate developer Amalia Graziani, Callisto Farms is worth taking the scenic route for – it’s the perfect way to dip your toes into the ease of Upstate living.
Check In To... Camptown Catskills. Just across the river from trendy Hudson, this former motor lodge feels like a grown-up summer camp. The sprawling property is dotted with unique cabins, each with its own personality that blend rustic charm with sleek design – think natural wood beams, vintage textiles and simple silhouettes. I stayed in a butter-yellow two-bedroom cabin with a fireplace, and didn’t want to leave. With a pool that could’ve been lifted straight from a retro swim club and a sauna where you can book a complimentary 30-minute private session, plus a fire pit and plenty of walking trails, you might find it hard to leave Camptown at all.
Grab Lunch At... Quinnie’s,. After a poolside lounge or sauna session, hop in the car and head to this local favourite, tucked just off the highway. Behind the walls of a big yellow house is this bustling cafe, serving some of the best sandwiches I’ve ever had. Try the chicken salad sandwich: roasted chicken breast (golden, crispy skin still on), tossed with Kewpie mayo, shallots, celery and the real star – preserved lemon. On weekends, they also host a lively smashburger night, which is well worth stopping for.
Get Your Art Fix At... Art Omi. Set on 120 acres, this sculpture park features around 60 large-scale works. The open-air setting makes it feel more like a Surrealist adventure than a museum, with art rising out of the meadows, woods and fields. The best part? It’s entirely free!
Experience A Flower Field Dream At... Holmquest Farms. While you’re in an outdoorsy mood, head here to bring a little nature home with you. What looks like a simple farm stand on the outskirts of Hudson is actually an invitation to wander through flower fields and build your own bouquet. Armed with a basket and shears, you can hand-pick a bundle of blooms for under $9 – a joyfully simple (yet beautiful) souvenir.
Grab A Cocktail At... The Maker Lounge. This hotel is a source of serious design envy for both locals and visitors; its old-world elegance is perfectly balanced with modern glamour, capturing the essence of Hudson’s Victorian-era charm. Slip around back to find the Lounge, a converted 19th-century carriage house with soaring ceilings, leather-clad walls and a glittering horseshoe-shaped bar framed by antique fixtures. Cosy up at a candlelit table and order a cocktail inspired by the hotel’s signature scent collection.
For An Unforgettable Meal... Grab a table at Camptown’s Casa Susanna for refined, traditional Mexican cuisine by chef Efrén Hernández. Don’t expect chips and salsa; instead, dishes arrive as thoughtful expressions of seasonality and heritage, from house-made masa folded into earthy tetelas and slow-cooked lamb barbacoa to a refreshing cherry tomato and husk cherry salad finished with granita and nasturtium leaves. The rustic-modern dining room offers a calm, intimate setting where every bite takes centre stage. And the best part: your bed is just steps away.
Day 2
Start Your Day At... Cafe Mutton. On the east end of Hudson’s charming downtown, this unassuming gem celebrates decadence and old-school cooking with quiet confidence. The menu leans meat and offal-heavy, with each dish spotlighting something unexpected – gloriously unbothered by the fleeting trends of more metropolitan restaurants. Their crepes are nearly translucent, buttery perfection, but don’t leave without trying the house-made pâté. Between the hearty food and the warm, unpretentious staff, you’ll feel instantly at home.
Take A Stroll Through... Hudson’s main cultural artery, Warren Street (downtown). It’s dotted with boutiques and galleries, but a few stops stand out:
- Nina Z – An expertly curated vintage shop with pieces from founder Nina Ziefvert’s own line sprinkled in. It’s a visual feast and a treasure trove of timeless finds.
- Meridian – A contemporary clothing shop that doubles as a hub for photographers, artists and other collaborators.
- Finch – A design lover’s dream: a one-stop mix of antiques, modern furniture and home accents. Think of it as Hudson’s aesthetic distilled into a single space.
- Culture Cream – Before you leave downtown, treat yourself to their fermented, probiotic ice cream and sorbet. Flavours change seasonally; I lucked into a scoop of miso and roasted strawberry – tangy, rich, unforgettable.
For A Home Décor Hit, Visit... The Antique Warehouse – the largest owner-operated antique and vintage shop in the northeastern United States. At over 40,000 square feet, it’s easy to get lost there – and that’s the fun of it. Vendors span everything from furnishings fit for sprawling country estates to treasures suited for the tiniest NYC apartments. I’ve spent half a day here and walked out with armfuls of vintage clothes and home finds.
Take A Hike Around... Kaaterskill Falls, one of New York’s most breathtaking natural landmarks, which you’ll find about 30 minutes west of Hudson. Lace up your sturdiest shoes for the easy-to-moderate two-hour hike, and you’ll be rewarded with a two-tiered waterfall and hidden swimming holes – the perfect Upstate reset.
Grab Dinner At... Silvia. In the idyllic town of Woodstock (yes, the namesake, though not the site of the original festival), this restaurant combines sleek design with soulful, farm-driven food. A wood-fired hearth anchors the room, while the menu is simple, seasonal and beautifully executed. I started with sweet Manila clams in a leek and artichoke broth, mopped up with their perfectly charred house-made pita, and followed with a golden chicken schnitzel over roasted snap peas, shallots and preserved lemons.
Finish Your Evening... Back in Hudson at The Hereafter – a cosy cocktail bar that feels like a friend’s well-loved living room. It’s lined with books, glowing with warmth and humming with conversation. The menu is playful, organised by mood (fun, classy, eccentric, deep), and crafted with house-made tinctures and bitters. I ordered the Casablanca: a gin martini with fig-infused vermouth, walnut liqueur and a dusting of cardamom – and ended up chatting with locals who swore this was the place to be.
Day 3
Ease Into the Day With... A morning swim in the Camptown pool, or centre yourself with a private sauna session before check-out. On your way out of town, swing by Circles for bagels that strike the perfect balance: soft, chewy and generously loaded with cream cheese (as they should be). Savoury lovers, go for The Everything Bagel with artichoke cream cheese, topped with lox and capers – it’s divine.
For More Great Souvenirs... Between May and October, stop at Grieg Farm to pick your own produce. Acres of fields roll out before you, each season offering something new – berries, tomatoes, pumpkins. If you’re lucky enough to visit in October, this is the quintessential Upstate spot for apple-picking and cider sipping.
A Must-Visit On The Way Back To New York Is... Wildflower Farms Auberge. Nestled on 160 acres at the base of the Shawangunk Mountains, this boutique wellness retreat blends luxury with nature, offering an immersive, restorative escape. Each of the 65 cabins boasts sweeping views of meadows or forest, perfect for a peaceful overnight stay – if your budget allows.
If not, take it from me: stopping by for the day is more than worth it. The spa, Thistle, offers everything from guided breathwork and deep-tissue massages to foraging walks led by a world-renowned herbalist. And don’t miss lunch at Clay, the farm-to-table restaurant, where hyper-seasonal dishes taste like a true celebration of the land. Yes, it’s a 30-minute detour on your way back to the city – but trust me: it’s time well spent.
