Istanbul sits precisely where Europe meets Asia, the deep blue Bosphorus strait drawing a line between two continents. It’s been a capital of the Roman and Byzantine empires and the opulent seat of the Ottoman sultans, but today it’s the place that worshippers and wanderlusters, creatives and culture buffs flock, to swap ideas over plates of lahmacun and slough away their stresses at the city’s storied hammams.
A collision of Mediterranean, Islamic and European cultures makes Istanbul a feast for the senses: awe-inspiring museums, waterside walks and a world-class food and drink scene. Here’s your guide to sampling the best of Istanbul in 72 hours.
Day 1
Check Into The Four Seasons Sultanahmet, steps from the sights in Istanbul’s Old Town yet cocooned from the tourist chaos. It’s set in an Ottoman-era prison – hard to believe when it looks like a buttermilk-yellow palace – and home to the sort of service that makes you feel cared for but never fussed over.
Fuel Up For Sightseeing At The Rabbit Hole, a cafe nestled a few streets west of the Blue Mosque (Kucuk Ayasofya, Sht. Mehmetpasa Yks. No:48A). Order strong Turkish coffee poured straight from the cezve, menemen eggs and a borek with cheese and spinach.
Marvel At The Wonders Of The Fatih District. The towering sixth-century Hagia Sophia, intricately tiled Blue Mosque and Roman tunnels of the Basilica Cistern are all within five minutes’ walk of each other. Grab tickets at the booths in front of the Fountain of Sultan Ahmet III.
Get Your Strength Up with a fistful of Turkish delight and some syrupy baklava from Hafiz Mustafa – try the pomegranate and cinnamon.
Find Calm At A Historic Hammam. Experience this centuries-old ritual rooted in Islamic culture at marble fortress Cağaloğlu, where you’re led by the hand from the communal halvet (hot room) and given a rigorous scrub with a kese mitt and olive oil soap until your skin is as soft as the day you were born.
Have An Early Dinner At Pandeli to beat the crowds. This restaurant above the gatehouse of the Spice Bazaar is a local favourite. Order the hünkar beğendi: slow-cooked lamb on a bed of velvety aubergine.
Go To Roof Mezzepotamia For A Sundowner with a view of the domes of the Hagia Sophia as you sample some raki (the best Turkish varieties are sold by the glass).
Day 2
Spend The Morning Roaming The Halls Of Topkapi Palace. Wear comfy shoes because there’s much to see, from holy relics to the lavish living quarters of Ottoman royalty. When you’re done, get some fresh air at neighbouring Gülhane Park and encounter the resident flock of herons.
Pick Up A Portable Lunch at Şehzade Cağ Kebap, a humble hatch serving charcoal-grilled lamb on paper-thin lavash bread. Ask for extra tomato dip – you’ll get through the little pot quickly.
Get Lost Inside The Grand Bazaar. This fever dream of stalls and passageways is the lifeblood of Istanbul, a place to watch craftspeople making kilim rugs and mosaic lanterns. Fill your suitcase with spices and handmade treasures, then pause for coffee at Şark Kahvesi.
Hop On A Tram Across Galata Bridge to the chic Karaköy neighbourhood. (Citymapper works well here – you can buy tickets at tram and metro stations or use a contactless card.) Walk along Serdar-ı Ekrem, dipping into its art dealers, antique shops and one-off boutiques: Lunapark for Turkish products, Baston for vintage and Der Liebling for jewellery.
Book Dinner At Mikla, a rooftop spot where Michelin-starred chef Mehmet Gürs has perfected an unfussy tasting menu – just wait ’til you get to the pistachio and peach pudding with basil ice cream.
Make New Friends at Tavern, a fun spot for dancing with well-dressed regulars. Don’t leave without trying a guacarita: tequila, vermouth, clarified tomato and guacamole cordial finished with kaffir lime.
Day 3
Let The Sea Air Revive You by taking the hotel’s free shuttle to its waterfront sister property on the Bosphorus. If you need some TLC, make use of the subterranean spa, then use it as your starting point for a stroll along the tree-lined coastal road to Dolmabahçe Palace. Stop for pictures at the Imperial Gate.
Eat A Quintessential Turkish Breakfast at Limon Kahvaltı Evi, a family-run cafe a 25-minute walk (or 15-minute yellow taxi) from the palace. Sit outside under the lemon tree and ask for the full works: homemade cheeses, baked eggs, pastries, sourdough, seasonal jams and as much tea as you can drink.
Immerse Yourself In Art at Istanbul Modern art museum. Designed by Renzo Piano, the architect behind the Centre Pompidou in Paris, it resembles a ship coming into dock. If you see one thing, make it the 360-degree infinity room by local artist Refik Anadol.
Snack On Some Simit, the thick rounds of dough you’ll have seen and smelled everywhere, sprinkled with sesame seeds or smeared with Nutella by vendors near the Tophane Fountain.
Scale One Of The World’s Oldest Towers for an unmatched panorama. The Galata Tower was built in 507 AD, with a fairytale turret that you can climb in around 10 minutes. Stop at the exhibition on your way up to learn more about its history (or catch your breath).
Dine At Aqua for some of the best seafood in Istanbul – not to mention the entertainment of boats sailing up to deposit diners straight from the Bosphorus. Try the lobster ravioli, and you’ll be desperate to recreate their Silk Road negroni (apparently the secret is clarified pineapple).
To Round Off Your Trip, Secure A Stool At Lips, a cosy natural wine bar. If you’ve still got steam after a few rounds of Turkish red, jump in a taxi to Too Little Too Late in Şişli, where a rotation of up-and-coming DJs keep the vibes high all night.
