“Dublin is a city of poets and dreamers, of rebels and troublemakers” was how Irish literary giant Brendan Behan described his hometown. Evidence of the city’s famous (and infamous) characters can be seen everywhere, from the statues of a reclining Oscar Wilde and Phil Lynott leaning on his guitar to Molly Malone pushing her barrow – and, of course the city’s plentiful pubs, so many of which have strong ties to the city’s literary culture, as you’ll discover here in our Dublin guide. Behan himself was a regular at Grogan’s and The Palace Bar, while Davy Byrne’s is a pilgrimage site for fans of James Joyce as it appears in the pages of Ulysses.
Of course, there’s more to the city than just the craic (although there’s plenty to be had). Many visitors might not realise just how close the city is to the coast – take a Dart train north to the fishing village of Howth or south to Dún Laoghaire pier for a bracing sea walk just 30 minutes from the city centre. Phoenix Park is Europe’s largest urban green space. There’s also a wealth of art – whether on the streets by artists such as Maser, or in its museums and galleries, from the Hugh Lane and the Irish Museum Of Modern Art to the National Gallery of Ireland.
Then there’s Dublin’s buzzing food scene, with new restaurants, cafes and bars opening all the time as the city becomes a sponge for culinary influences from all over the world. Dublin-born chef Andy McFadden, who heads up Michellin-starred Glover’s Alley in the centre of the city, believes the strength of the city’s food scene lies in the quality of Irish produce and its outward-looking approach. “There are a lot of amazing producers with a lot of passion for what they do. Also, the diverse global cuisine... it’s a real melting pot of cultures,” he says. And there are new trends emerging all the time: “There are some really cool places doing small plates without a formality to the menu, and [we’re also seeing] a shift towards vegetable-focused cuisine.”
Inspired to visit? Below, Katie Teehan recommends the places to eat and sights to see – plus, how to find the perfect pint of Guinness – on the ultimate long weekend in Dublin.
Day 1
Check in to... The Wren Urban Nest. Ireland’s first net zero carbon hotel, this super-stylish haven feels like a sanctuary of zen despite its incredibly central location just steps from some of the city’s best food and drink spots (more on which below). The design is Scandi minimalist with wood, wicker and soft lighting, and there is greenery everywhere. It uses only renewable energy, there are no single-use plastics and you’ll find lots of local craft products. We loved the bespoke Irish toiletries from the Handmade Soap Company.
Grab A Coffee At... Kaph artisan cafe, one of the best places in Dublin to caffeinate. The cakes are top-notch too, and you’ll need something to keep your energy up – this is a city best explored on foot.
Explore The Creative Quarter... the area between South William Street, George’s Street, Exchequer Street, and Lower Stephen’s Street, which is a hotspot for independent shops, restaurants and pubs (Handy, as the Wren is down an alley just off Exchequer Street.) Pop into the Powerscourt Townhouse, a shopping and arts hub. Browse in the galleries, do some people-watching over soup and a sandwich in the Pepperpot cafe and treat yourself to something beautiful in MoMuse, where you’ll find fine gold jewellery designed in Dublin.
Time For A Guinness... Dubliners are fiercely proud of the their Guinness. But how to spot the perfect pint? According to Guinness global brand ambassador Pádraig Fox, it’s a highly scientific process. A “cool, clean and dry Guinness glass” is key, then the first pour at 45 degrees, the first settle – taking a pause between pours “until we see a clear separation of the creamy head and the dark liquid underneath”, the top-up pour to create “a lovely convex dome on top” and, finally, the last settle, during which time the head should reach 12-18mm.
Finally, Fox has this advice for tasting: “An error a lot of people make is that they take a small sip of the head – this is where the nitrogen bubbles have settled and is the most bitter part of the pint. The best way to taste Guinness is to not look into the glass, but to look to the horizon, raise the glass and take a big gulp through the head into the beer. Don’t be afraid of getting a Guinness ’tache!”
Now you’re armed with the knowledge, head to Grogan’s. A seat outside this famous pub on a sunny summer’s day is the most coveted spot in town. And in winter, snuggle into its tiny interior and peruse the walls lined with works by local artists. Order a Guinness (and a toastie if you’re peckish) and soak in the atmosphere of this Dublin institution.
Explore Local Art At... The RHA Gallery – Home to some of the most exciting new Irish and global artistic talent across five gallery spaces, all free to visit. Or take in a Street Art Tour – a two-hour stroll taking in some of the most vibrant of the city’s murals, installations and graffiti.
Book Dinner At... El Silencio – You’ll find delicious tacos and margaritas in this speakeasy bar, accessed through a hidden door. On your way there, take a brief detour to stroll down Grafton Street, the most famous shopping street in Dublin that’s even better known for its buskers.
Round Off Your Night At... The Comedy Cellar. Contrary to its name, this comedy club is upstairs at The International Bar, and hosts big-name and up-and-coming comics from Ireland and beyond. After the gig, you’re just around the corner from your hotel in case you need to fall into bed after a jam-packed day, but if you want another nightcap, head to The Library Bar at the Hoxton, also just down the street. It’s the cosiest spot in town for a hot whiskey (an Irish classic of clove-infused whiskey with lemon and sugar).
Day 2
Grab Breakfast At... Tang on Dawson Street. The fried eggs with hummus, feta, nut dukkah, and sourdough toast will set you up for the day.
Delve Into Dublin’s History At... By taking a stroll down to Kilmainham Gaol Museum for its excellent tour – an immersive and emotive journey through the past two centuries of Irish history. Absolutely unmissable for history fans, or just anyone who wants to better understand the Ireland we know today.
Make A Pitstop At... The Guinness Storehouse. Because no trip to Dublin is complete without a visit here to take an interactive tour through the making of the beer, and even learn how to pull your own pint. End up in The Gravity Bar at the top of the building, where you’ll find panoramic city views, and yes, another Guinness.
Have A Bite To Eat At... The Fumbally. This laidback, friendly neighbourhood cafe and bakery uses all locally sourced ingredients to create delicious, homely food. We love the daily special soups, sandwiches and sweet treats (the coffee is great too).
Catch Traditional Irish Music Session At... The Cobblestone. A short walk across the River Liffey and through Smithfield you’ll find this hidden gem – which describes itself as ‘a drinking pub with a music problem’ – where you can enjoy daily live trad sessions featuring skilled local musicians.
Browse The Shelves At... Dublin’s many bookshops. The city is a treasure trove for bibliophiles: don’t miss Gutter Bookshop, The Winding Stair (which also has an excellent restaurant upstairs), Ulysses Rare Books and Books Upstairs. And for the ultimate book lovers’ treat, visit Trinity College Old Library – its magnificent wood-panelled Long Room is home to 200,000 of the university’s oldest books. You’ll also see the 9th century gospel manuscript, The Book Of Kells.
Book A Table At... La Gordita In this fine-dining tapas restaurant, you’ll find dishes such as cured cod carpaccio, boquerones and tempura spring onions, an excellent wine menu and – like in all the best Dublin restaurants – a sincerely warm welcome and excellent service.
Follow In The Footsteps Of Giants On The... Dublin Literary Pub Crawl. Part tour, part street theatre led by actors, they’ll lead you on a rollicking journey across the city via the favourite watering holes of some of its literary giants. Expect performances from the works of James Joyce, Oscar Wilde, W.B. Yeats and Brendan Behan, as well as a few jokes – and drinks – along the way.
Day 3
Have Breakfast At... Fallon & Byrne. Again just a few steps from your hotel, this multi-story venue (with a deli, wine bar, restaurant, shop and cafe) is a total emporium for foodies and the ideal spot to start your day.
Take A Walk... back across the river to the EPIC The Irish Emigration Museum where you can learn all about the Irish diaspora – the estimated 70-80million people who brought Irish culture to all corners of the globe through emigration.
Head Off To The Coast... Walking around the centre it’s easy to forget that Dublin is a coastal city, but a 30-minute train ride from Connolly Dart Station whisks you away to the fishing village of Howth. Take a bracing walk along the pier (sure to blow away any cobwebs from the night before) and explore the fresh fish markets and restaurants. You can even spot seals from the pier here, they swim up to catch any castaways from the markets. For lunch, fish and chips is always a good choice, either from Beshoffs Bros or The Bloody Stream pub, located right under the Dart station.
Have A Pick-Me-Up At... Kehoe’s pub, back in the city centre – the place to be by 5pm. It’s always packed with an after-work crowd of thirsty Dubliners, and no wonder when the Guinness is this good. Or if you’ve had too much of a good thing (just don’t admit that to the locals), check out 777 Mexican cocktail bar and restaurant for the best spicy margaritas in town. While you’re in the area browse the market stalls of the George’s Street Arcade, where you’ll find handmade jewellery, vintage clothes, vinyls, comics, art and more.
It’s Time For Your Last Dinner At... Space Jaru in the Liberties area of the city – its Korean fried chicken, handmade kimchi and bulgogi fries have made it a firm local favourite. Or, if you’d rather a meal with a view, The Winding Stair (upstairs from the previously mentioned book shop) serves modern Irish fare overlooking the city’s famous Ha’Penny Bridge.
