When you think of Los Angeles, a few things come to mind: palm trees, those big capital letters dotted across the side of the hills, Rodeo Drive (baby!), and the general life of the rich and famous. It’s a city that’s played home to the glamour (and grit) of the A-List since before most of us were born – but for those who actually live in and visit the City of Angels regularly, the glossy facade of West Hollywood and Beverly Hills isn’t where you spend most of your time. No, that’s where East and Downtown LA come in.
As the city gears up to host the next Olympic and Paralympic Games, it’s set to become even more of a hub for visitors, who no doubt will be flocking to see the sights on the Sunset Strip in between events. And if you’re looking for hidden gems outside the usual tourist route – recommendations that promise great food and a taste of the city’s rich history, I’ve got you. I’m currently in LA on a whistle-stop tour for Service95, and after spending 72 hours Downtown and East, I can confirm it’s home to some of the best lowkey food and drink spots in the city.
Because it’s in the less polished (and, honestly, in some cases, considerably less polished but still very much worth exploring) areas of East and Downtown play home to the parts of LA that people in the know actually visit: the bars, restaurants and cultural hubs that form the beating heart of the city where celebrity began.
Now, I’ll be real with you: unless you hire a car, anywhere you visit in LA will incur a bit of a hefty taxi bill (Uber or Lyft is your friend here). It’s not the most walkable city, and everything is spread pretty far apart. So you’ll find a fair few mentions of jumping in a cab here, but it’s the easiest and quickest route to getting anywhere.
So, whether you’re a local looking for some tried-and-tested reccs or a visitor looking to branch out from beyond the Walk of Fame, here’s everything we got up to when we spent three days in Downtown and East LA last week – expect mood-lifting art, more dinners than should reasonably fit into a long weekend and, of course, plenty of martinis...
Day 1
Check Into... The Hoxton – it’s perfectly situated between the high-end contemporary galleries in north DTLA and the smaller, cooler spots in the Arts District. The rooms are spacious, the staff super friendly, there’s a rooftop bar and pool (a rare gem for the area) and the rainfall shower feels like a daily spa ritual.
Grab Your First Bite At... Pine & Crane, an excellently priced Taiwanese spot down the road, that serves up generous portions of flavourful dishes. The pan-fried pork buns come in a serving of six – pair it with the cucumber salad and you’ll likely have a couple left to take home for later. If you’re there closer to breakfast time, the cheesy, eggy thousand-layer pancake is the flaky stuff of dreams.
Then, Get The Glimpse Of LA At... Griffith Observatory – Southern California’s gateway to the cosmos and an iconic spot for a reason, that’s around a 30-minute drive from the hotel. The Observatory isn’t just a beautiful building and museum that’s worth exploring, it provides the perfect viewpoint for seeing just how vast LA is – from the hi-rise buildings of Downtown on your left to the Hollywood sign dotted along the hills to your right. You could drive straight up there and join the tourists at the top, but as you might know, Los Angelites love to hike, so why not...
Stretch Your Legs By... Walking up to the Observatory. It’s one of the most straightforward hikes in the area and it offers sensational views of the city, without the crowds you’ll find up at the top. There are multiple routes up, that take anything from an hour max to several more. Beginners, set your Google Maps to 2333 Fern Dell Drive, where you can take the Firebreak trail up to the Observatory. You have two options: West or East. Note – West offers a quicker view of the Hollywood sign, but it’s steep. Learn from our error – grab a water from the cafe at the drop-off point, then head up the East route, with its slower, shadier incline, and stroll down via the West for the full experience. Make sure to pop into the Observatory once you’re up there – the painted ceilings alone are worth a look.
Refuel At... Maru Coffee in Los Feliz – a great neighbourhood just a 10 minutes in the car from Fern Dell Drive, where we’d happily live if anyone would like to put us up in one of its picture-perfect houses... Join the chic crew lining up for coffee and order an espresso tonic as a pick-me-up, post-hike.
Or, For Something More Substantial, Get Lunch At... Little Dom’s, just up the road recommended by none other than actor Dan Levy in his LA eats guide here). He said the ricotta lemon pancakes are the best in LA, and he might just be right. The meatball sandwich is also deliciously hearty, if you’re in the mood for something savoury.
Pick Up Some Great Reads At... Skylight Books – a beloved independent neighbourhood spot around the corner, which is packed full of every book you need to read. Take your time browsing its shelves, before heading back to the hotel to freshen up (the hike up to the Observatory can be sweaty).
Get Your Bearings From... The rooftop bar of The Hoxton, for another sky-high view of LA from a different angle – all shining neon signs and high-rise buildings that make you feel like you’re in the heart of a vibrant city. The prosecco is also wonderfully dry if you fancy a crisp glass of fizz.
Then, It’s Time For Dinner At... Camélia, a French-Japanese bistro over in the Arts District. It’s one of the best meals we’ve had in ages. Must-orders are the croque madame with a ham katsu filling and creamy béchamel topping, and the umamiest spaghetti bolognese ‘à la Japonaise’ – it’s like nothing you’ll have tasted before. Pair it with a lychee-laced ‘decibel martini’, and you’ll feel like the chicest person around.
Day 2
Rise And Shine And Get Exploring With... A stroll up towards LA’s major galleries and museums, all of which are just 20 minutes away on foot. Soak up the glimmering charm of the jewellery stores, windows glinting with metals and stones. Now is, admittedly, where DTLA shines – after dark, it’s best to travel around by taxi, but during the day, you’ll spot great pitstops as you head north: Hilltop Coffee, for a caffeine fix (founded by Issa Rae, so you know it’s going to be good); FIDM (fans of The Hills will get it); and some classic shops hidden beneath the faded glamour of former theatres (notably Apple and Urban Outfitters are tucked beneath those classic neon signs).
Tuck Into A Hearty Breakfast At... Grand Central Market: a vibrant all-day hub brimming with food and drink stalls. Get yourself a pastry or bagel from Bastion Bakery, or an egg sando from the OG Eggslut, then take it over to the counter at Go Get ’Em Tiger coffee to enjoy with a perfectly crafted cappuccino (or coffee of your choice).
Ride Through History By... Hopping on the Angels Flight Railway, the world’s shortest railway, built in 1901. Jump on the tiny orange train and travel the 90m uphill to Grand Avenue – it’s actually the quickest route, meaning you avoid walking along some majorly busy roads, and will only cost you $1.50.
Then, Get Your Contemporary Art Fix At... One of the classic galleries lining Grand Avenue: there’s the MOCA or, perhaps our favourite, The Broad (mainly for its excellent Basquiat collection – perfect for fans of Dua’s Monthly Read from earlier this year, Widow Basquiat). There’s also the stunning sculptural Walt Disney Concert Hall at the end of the street, should you need a little music to brighten your day.
Order A Matcha To Go At... Rabbit Coffee, the mint-green stall right outside The Broad –the mango iced spin is delicious (see below) – and begin to stroll back down towards the hotel. On your way...
Dive Into A Bibliophine’s Dream At... The Last Bookstore (below) – a treasure trove of new and classic reads, plus a killer vinyl selection, in the heart of DTLA. It’s also home to a coffee shop and, upstairs, you’ll find some fun sculptures crafted from, yes, books – including a literary tunnel, through which you’ll find a kaleidoscopic array of vintage hardbacks to sift through.
Head For Happy Hour At... You have two options here: Garçons De Café, the cutest wine bar and bistro that serves up small plates and pizza with a side of jazz. Or, there’s Kippered, where you can get a great glass of vino and some chic tinned fish to snack on, if that’s more your thing. You can’t go wrong with either.
Hail A Cab To Dinner At... Berenjak, the Persian restaurant that started in London and is the new spot to visit in Downtown LA. Think excellent bread and dips, succulent kebabs and cookies for dessert that you’ll wish you’d ordered more of the next day. Ask for a spot on the leafy terrace, which feels like an oasis in the middle of the industrial Arts District. Then, finish with a drink upstairs on the rooftop at Soho Warehouse if you have a membership (or can befriend someone who does, while you’re at the restaurant). It’s the perfect way to mingle with locals and round off the evening in style.
Day 3
Start Slow, With Breakfast Downstairs At... Moonlark’s Dinette – the hotel’s diner, which buzzes with life (from both hotel guests and visitors) around brunch time. Go big with a biscuit sandwich – that’s American biscuits, paired sausage, eggs and cheese – and an extra-strong coffee to fuel up for your last day of exploring.
Head East For A Stylish Day In DTLA... Back over by Berenjak and Camélia, the Arts District is perfect for a daytime gallery hop. Have your Uber drop you off at the north end, towards Little Tokyo, for some sculptural sights at The Geffen Contemporary Gallery, housed in a former police car warehouse reimagined by the legendary architect Frank Gehry.
Get Your Caffeine Fix At... Concierge Coffee, a sleek little spot just 10 minutes’ walk away, before hopping next door for another artistic hit at DTLA’s Hauser & Wirth, where the Flora Yukhnovich exhibition opens later this month – the British artist’s larger-than-life floral paintings are truly stunning. Once you’re done, you’ll be ready for a hearty late lunch – but first, en route...
Have A Quick Browse At... Dover Street Market – no artsy area is complete without one of these boutique stores, founded by Rei Kawakubo and Adrian Joff. Its collection is probably the coolest line of clothes and accessories you’ve seen in a while. You won’t leave empty handed.
Then, Get Some Obligatory Mexican Food At... Ditroit Taquería – this area is dotted with a few great restaurants, including the much-lauded Italian, Bestia – but you can’t spend time in LA without trying some really great Mexican food. Order as many tacos as you can fit on your table and a Mexican Coke (wonderfully sweeter than the kind we’re used to).
Have One Last Cocktail Fix At... Everson Royce Bar, just a few minutes’ stroll down the road. The ‘freezer martini’ is an excellent last sip before you depart – and while the dimly lit bar is perfect for getting to know the local crowd come evening, the huge garden at the back is perfect for an alfresco bev. Oh, and if you have room, the smash burger is said to be one of LA’s best – and we couldn’t agree more. Burger and a martini? There’s no better way to round off a trip, if you ask us...
