I can’t quite recall when Marseille popped up on my radar, but I suspect — like most of us over the past few years — it was probably via an enviable, hyper-saturated Euro summer Instagram carousel.
There’s a reason this city continues to seduce generations of artists, chefs, designers and discerning travellers. France’s oldest and second biggest city has long existed outside the neat fantasy of the south of France. It’s louder, saltier and more eclectic than the manicured luxury associated with the surrounding Riviera, shaped by centuries of migration and exchange between Europe, North Africa and beyond.
It’s easy to understand why Anthony Bourdain wanted to retire here. And why friend of Service95 Simon Porte Jacquemus (who grew up close by) continues to orbit the port city, whether staging runway shows in the Calanques or dedicating an entire book to Marseille. So much so that I returned earlier this month, determined to nail my growing list of natural-leaning wine bars, unique trinket spots and local-approved swimming spots. Here’s how to get the most out of Marseille in a weekend.
Day One
Check In And Drop Your Bags Off At... Well, you have a choice here. I’d recommend staying relatively central to the port to make the most of your 72 hours. Le Panier (Marseille’s oldest neighbourhood) or up near Notre Dame du Mont are a good place to start. There are plenty of charming Airbnbs to choose from, here and across the city.
For hotels: the recently opened Hôtel Amista near Marseille's Vieux-Port is stylish, central and ideal for a quick city break, while Hôtel Le Corbusier, located further out of town inside architect Le Corbusier’s iconic Cité Radieuse building, feels like stepping into a modernist time capsule – exactly what you’d hope for from one of the 20th-century’s most influential architects.
Perk Up For The Day Ahead At Chez Moe. If, like me, you’ve taken an early flight to wring every possible hour out of Marseille, chances are you’ll need caffeine. Chez Moe is a small Le Panier coffee shop with outdoor tables that spill onto an open street terrace, making it the ideal spot to pause and people-watch. It also turns into a wine bar at night, if you fancy popping back once the sun has set.
Browse The Shelves At Ensemble. Just a quick stroll from Chez Moe, Ensemble is part bookshop, part gallery, dedicated to contemporary photography and independent publishing. The space is filled with tastefully curated art and photography titles from across the world, alongside exhibitions and editions from Marseille-based publisher Loose Joints. Even if your suitcase space is limited, chances are you’ll leave with at least one memento tucked under your arm.
Grab A Quick Bite At Bánh Mì 24. Pick up a takeaway bánh mì on the most sublime French baguette and perch in the sun (or shade) around the corner at Fontaine du Cours Julien. You could even grab a glass of wine at any of the many restaurants that line the square.
Prepare Your Soul (And Wallet) For Vintage Shopping. Marseille’s vintage scene is really, really good. I found an insane leather jacket with fireman clasps at Mélanine Vintage Club that I’ve worn every day since. Also worth a browse are Digitale Pourpre, Lovely Vintage Club, Merguez Fripe and Common Marseille — all within walking distance of one another in the Cours Julien area.
Book Ahead For Dinner At Limmat. Located literally on the main staircase leading up to Cours Julien, it’s revered for its unfussy yet exquisite plates of local fish, seasonal vegetables and natural wine. Request a table outside for sweeping views across Marseille. If it’s fully booked, try nearby Livingston – a wine bar and bistro that’s equally cool and delicious.
Cap The Night Off At Planète Livre La Passerelle, a wine bar that is unpretentious and simple in the best possible way. Ask for a hand-selected bottle from their extensive wine selection (if French isn’t your strong suit, the barmen are very helpful in decoding gesticulations of ‘white’ and ‘mineral’, like mine) or simply drink whatever they’ve decided to crack open that evening. You can even smoke Vogues inside, if that’s your bag.
Day Two
Start Your Day With A Swim At Calanques National Park, known for its limestone cliffs and crystal-clear waters. Some of its most beautiful coves are relatively easy to reach from Marseille: for Calanque de Sugiton, close to Morgiou, take the B1 bus towards Luminy, followed by a scenic hike into the national park. There are also plenty of boat tours from the Marseille port, which take you straight into the coves and, in some cases, to beaches only accessible by water.
On my venture to the national park, I decided to squeeze in a trip to Cassis – a small harbour town roughly 20 minutes from Marseille by train. The two-hour hike from there to Calanque d’En-Vau is well worth the effort, winding past Port Miou and Port Pin to one of the most breathtaking swimming inlets in the park. If trekking isn’t your thing, Plage du Bestouan is a tiny but beautiful beach back in Cassis to park up at instead.
Whichever route you choose, stop by a local supermarket beforehand to stock up on lunch, fruit and plenty of water. And if you find yourself back in Cassis afterwards, Casa Roma does seriously good pizza.
If You’ve Still Got Energy, Swing By Maison Empereur in the Noailles district of Marseille – said to be France’s oldest hardware store, it’s a treasure trove of ceramics, linens, kitchenware and beautifully random objects (think tarot cards, candlesticks and vintage doorknobs). Nearby, Père Blaize — a historic herbal pharmacy dating back to the early 1800s – still hand-mixes tailored teas and natural remedies for whatever ailment you might describe.
For A Well-Deserved Dinner, Make Your Way To Ivresse in Cinq Avenues – a cosy spot serving small plates that, perhaps fittingly, translates to “drunkenness”. The menu changes regularly, the wine list leans heavily natural and Eastern European, and the crème brûlée was, without question, the best of my trip.
Polish Off A Wine (Or A Beer) Like A Local at Au Petit Nice, a bar around a 15-minute walk away. This place gets packed (in the best way), with people dancing, laughing and spilling out onto the terrace long into the evening. (It’s worth noting that the house white is ridiculously good and just €12 for a bottle!)
Day Three
Ease Into Your Final Day with a caffeine fix at Razzia – one of Marseille’s best brunch spots. If you’re there over a weekend, note that most shops in Marseille shut on Sundays, which the city seems to treat less as an inconvenience and more as a collective agreement to relax.
Spend the rest of your morning wandering through the Museum of European and Mediterranean Civilisations, on the waterfront beyond the port, which is home to exhibitions that explore Mediterranean history, migration and contemporary culture.
Take One Last Dip In The Sea at Anse de Maldormé or Anse de la Fausse-Monnaie, two coves where you can easily settle in along the rocks with a towel and supermarket snacks for lunch. For a little more luxury, you can pre-book lunch and a daybed on the ‘Bikini’ level at waterside hotel Tuba Club. It’s about half an hour’s drive from the Old Port, down in fishing village Les Goudes by the Calanques, but it’s worth the trip for a table at the restaurant, carved directly into the rocks above the sea.
Keep The Relaxation Going with a session at Hammam Eden. If you can bear to tear yourself away from the sun, soothe aching post-hike-and-swim limbs at this traditional hammam. Rooted in the bathing traditions of North Africa and the greater Mediterranean, its steam rooms, massages and quiet spaces allow you to properly switch off for a couple of hours.
Round Off Your Last Evening with one of two options. If your ideal beachside evening involves a takeaway bottle and an ocean view, stop by Mademoiselle Wine before making your way back towards the rocks with a snack from Cécile Food Club Malmousque for one final Marseille sunset.
If you’re after something a little livelier, head to restaurant and bar La Caravelle overlooking the Vieux-Port. It feels like stepping back in time: slightly worn-in, convivial and buzzing with locals and visitors alike. When I visited, they were exclusively playing Sade (j’adore, as they say). Come in the early evening for wine and tapas hour and sit on the balcony if there’s room to watch the sun begin to dip. A fitting end to a packed 72 hours in Marseille.
