72 Hours In Lisbon: Where To Find Stunning Views, Local Art & Fresh Pasteis De Nata (Of Course) In The Portuguese Capital

Life feeling a little grey of late? Lisbon is, almost certainly, the answer. No matter when you choose to visit, it’s an explosion of colour: red-tiled roofs atop yellow-and-peach-toned buildings, with vibrant pink bougainvillea blooming on street corners and along terraces, contrasting the almost guaranteed azure sky (thanks to more than 300 days of sunshine per year). Safe to say, it’s gorgeous spring escape for those of us dealing with northern hemisphere gloom.  

Then again, there’s never a bad time to visit. From the raucous Santos Populares in June, where the streets are decked in colourful garlands and the party (and sardine eating) runs for days, to the Nos Alive music festival in July and the Santa Casa Alfama celebration of fado music in September, Lisbon is a city that knows how to entertain.

Then there’s the year-round delights: a thriving arts scene, from ceramics and those tiles to galleries and bookshops spilling out onto the streets, plus a coastline that quietly rivals the most remote of islands.  

And, of course, Lisbon’s food scene is hard to beat. You won’t be able to resist its famous sardines (enjoy them from late May to August), bacalhau (the salt cod you’ll find on menus any time) and, of course, the pastéis de nata – flaky, creamy, bite-size custard tarts that warrant a visit on their own.

Interested? Of course you are. So here are a few tried-and-tested tips for getting the most from 72 hours in Lisbon once you arrive...

Check In To… Memmo Alfama boutique hotel – the perfect base from which to explore this beautiful city. Set in a labyrinth of streets in the old Alfama neighbourhood, it’s got one of the city’s finest rooftop pools where you can take a dip with views of the Tagus River or grab a poolside table for sunset drinks. The staff are the friendliest: full of local recommendations and always on hand to book you on to the hotel’s daily roster of events, from walking tours to sunrise yoga. Oh, and perhaps most importantly, you’ll find towers of to-die-for fresh pastéis de nata in the breakfast room each morning.

Get Your Bearings With… A walking tour of historic Alfama, which was the heart of the city under Moorish rule in the 11th and 12th centuries. It’s a maze of narrow streets, hidden courtyards and hole-in-the-wall cafes, shops and bars, and locals say the best way to explore it is to get lost – because no matter where you end up, you’ll only be 15 minutes from where you need to be, and you’ll see lots of beautiful sights along the way. Everywhere you go you’ll see elaborately painted azulejo tiles – head to Cerâmica S Vicente, a family-run studio in Alfama where you can see the tiles being made. (And for real ceramic fans, keep an eye on the relaunch of the National Tile Museum, which is about a 10-minute Uber from Alfama and due to reopen this summer after renovation.) And there are plenty of bougainvillea-adorned miradouros, or viewpoints, nearby to take in the panoramic river views. One of the hardest to find, and therefore quietest, is at Santo Estêvão Belvedere. Stop there for a little breather before navigating your way back out.  

For Lunch, Head To… Tasca Baldracca. This cosy spot in the medieval Mouraria neighbourhood is popular, so be sure to either book ahead or turn up right when it opens to secure a table. Browse the specials on the chalkboard and prepare yourself for delicious, imaginative small plates designed to be shared: think steak tartare with anchovies, beets, horseradish and hazelnut salad and grilled shrimp with ’nduja.

Hit The Shops At… XVIII – Azulejo E Faiança to pick up locally made tiles to bring home as souvenirs, with near neighbours in Alfama including We The Knot for sustainably produced clothing and accessories mainly made in Portugal and Chicoração, where you’ll find artisan knits and woollen homewares.

Thirsty? Stop For An Aperitivo At… Antiga Wine Bar, a stylish Alfama spot where you can enjoy an excellent selection of Portuguese wines by the glass alongside snacks such as ceviche, pastéis de bacalhau and local cheeses. Got a taste for that Portuguese vinho? Nearby Maria Palato runs wine tastings, too.

Let Drinks Flow Into Dinner At… Discreto, just a few minutes’ walk through the lanes of Alfama from your hotel. You’re going to want to leave room for this meal of simple dishes with fresh flavours – think octopus and chorizo bean stew or cod fritters.

Round Off The Night With Some… Fado, Lisbon’s traditional music style which features soulful songs about love and loss, usually performed by a solo singer accompanied by Portuguese guitar. You won’t have to wander far through Alfama to hear the strains floating out from doorways in the evenings, but two great spots to try are Mesa de Frades (I loved the atmosphere of this converted old chapel) and Fama d’Alfama, where you can listen while enjoying dishes including shrimp linguine and regional charcuteries.

Start The Day… By the water. It’s a great spot for a run – and just as picturesque for walk if that’s more your pace. From your hotel, turn right when you reach the river and you’ll soon come to the majestic Praça do Comércio, the huge, harbour-facing plaza that’s home to some of the city’s most impressive and beautiful buildings. Keep going along the footpath and bike lane that runs for kilometres, no traffic-dodging required. The grand, colonnaded buildings soon give way to train tracks and warehouses – on my run, I spotted parties still going strong from the night before. You could carry on all the way to see Belém Tower (though that’s a good hour-and-a-half of walking – or a 16-minute Uber), or head back towards Alfama and grab a coffee at Nova Pombalina on Rua do Comércio 2 in Chiado – either way, head there for breakfast to fuel up for the day ahead.

Discover For Views For Days At… Parque Eduardo VII viewpoint. Lisbon is known for its many hills (there’s ongoing debate as to whether it’s seven or eight), so expect some uphill climbs while you’re there. The upside to all that trekking? Some genuinely breathtaking views. If you’d rather not face a 40-minute hike from the hotel, hop on the metro at Terreiro do Paço station and five stops will take you to Parque in the Avenidas Novas neighbourhood, which is just a 10-minute stroll to the viewpoint. From there, you can see the whole city spread out before you, down the grand Avenida da Liberdade all the way to the waterfront. There are plenty of photo ops, not to mention spots to grab a coffee – along with the Estufa Fria gardens, housed in three sprawling greenhouses, making for a serene escape into nature before you head back into the city.

Hungry? Head Down To… Baixa, the central grid of streets behind the Praça do Comércio that’s teeming with bars and restaurants – a 40-minute walk straight down Avenida da Liberdade from Estufa Fria. The area can feel a little touristy but restaurant A Merendinha do Arco Bandeira bucks the trend. Head here for a no-fuss, super-traditional lunch  – think caldo verde soup or fried mackerel –beloved by locals.  

Soak Up Some History At… A public toilet. OK, so it won’t be the most glamorous stop of your trip, but it’s well worth seeking out the public banheiro on Beco de Santa Helena in Alfama. Along the walls of the tunnel outside leading to its door, you’ll find a comic strip depiction of the history of Lisbon. From the Portuguese Inquisition to the 1755 earthquake that destroyed much of the city and the bloody 20th-century dictatorship and colonial wars, muralist Nuno Saraiva beautifully captures the breadth of events that have shaped this wonderful city.  

Cool Down With… Dessert at Santini Gelados Artesanais – you’ll be ready for a treat after all that exploring. The pistachio gelato rivals any you’ll find in Italy (a bold claim, but I stand by it).

Then, Relax Over A Courtyard Dinner At… Patéo Bairro do Avillez: a taberna, pizzeria, bar and restaurant all in one, so you can choose which option best suits your mood. They’re all set around a beautiful indoor courtyard (patéo), with the mezzanine tables made for people watching. Renowned chef José Avillez is the brains behind the menus, and his love of Portuguese gastronomy shines through via updated classics such as bacalhau, ‘exploding olives’ and octopus salad.

Stop For A Nightcap At… Bloco, a buzzing little wine bar just across the street. Lisbon is known for producing delicious wines influenced by the Atlantic, with a signature freshness and acidity. A glass (or two) of Flui branco lightly sparkling wine might just have you turning your back on cava.

Get Your Caffeine Fix At… Copenhagen Coffee Lab in Baixa – a cool, Scandi-style space where you’ll find incredible bread and pastries. Speaking of which, it’s really time you got your pastel de nata fix (if you haven’t filled up on the ones at the hotel already). The internet might tell you to go to the renowned Pastéis de Belém in the riverside district of Belém (and they are excellent), but steer clear of the crowds and head to local-approved spot Manteigaria on Rua do Loreto in Chiado. You’ll struggle to stop at one.

Browse The Shelves At… The world’s oldest bookshop, Livraria Bertrand. It’s been operating in the Chiado neighbourhood since 1732 (with the Guinness World Record to prove it) and is a pilgrimage site for bibliophiles who come to explore its vault-like space of interconnected rooms housing Portuguese and English-language books. While this is the most famous bookshop in the area, there are more literary treasure troves to be explored. Nearby Livraria Sá da Costa sells rare books, while Salted Books is an English-language bookshop and cafe focusing on literary fiction and minority voices. It runs regular events and writing workshops that are worth checking out if you’re in town while they’re on.

Explore Further Afield & Hit The Water At... Cais do Sodré. From there, you can take a ferry across the Tagus River to Cacilhas in Almada. You’ll get stunning views of Lisbon from the boat, and on the other side, discover the quaint fishing villages and a plethora of incredible places to eat. My recommendation: Ponto Final, a 10-minute walk from the ferry station. Riverside views from its shaded terrace make it the dreamiest spot for a long, lazy lunch washed down with a bottle of vinho verde.

Head For A Post-Lunch Stroll Back In Lisbon At… Calouste Gulbenkian Museum, which houses one of the world’s largest private art collections, spanning from Ancient Egypt to the 20th century. The main building is closed for renovation until July 2026, but the world-famous gardens are still open and until July are home to the outdoor Natura Mirabilis: Art and Nature exhibition, which is free to visit.

Sample The Best Of Cuisine With Dinner At… Cacué, a charming family restaurant in the Picoas neighborhood with a relaxed, intimate atmosphere, run by chef José Saudade e Silva. This is simple Portuguese food at its best: enjoy bacalhau à brás, salada mista and arroz, and toast to your last evening in this unforgettable city.your last evening in this unforgettable city.

Up For One Last Drink? Raise A Glass At… Imprensa. Set in a former print shop, this cocktail and oyster bar has impeccable speakeasy vibes – the perfect place to lose an evening. Instead of happy hour, there’s a daily ‘oyster hour’, the drinks are delicious and inventive (some, including the vermouth-based Futura or mezcal-spiked Georgia are named after typefaces, in a nod to the building’s history) and the tunes go on till late. Any excuse to make the most of every last minute in Lisbon.