“We worship everything in Bali,” explains Wayan, my driver, as he weaves between the mopeds in Ubud’s evening rush hour. The city, nestled between paddy fields in the island’s humid interior, is a place where modern life clashes with ancient belief. Hinduism came to the island from India in the 1st century and merged with the native animist traditions. You’ll spot evidence of both everywhere, from the shrines and offerings placed at the entrance of each house to the startling gargoyle-faced stone sculptures that jump out at you on every corner.
Here are the best ways to soak up Ubud’s unique mix of ancient and new...
1. Get The Kinks Ironed Out With A Balinese Massage
Ubud is overflowing with high-quality spas, and after the long flight a massage will unpick the knots. I chose the Putri Bali Spa, which is set in a lush complex that includes a bar and cafe, a clothing boutique and an ornamental pond with koi carp. Your assistant leads you through a maze of treatment cabins, all fitted out with showers and freestanding bathtubs. My hour-long ‘slimming’ massage, which combined lymphatic drainage with a firming scrub, was satisfyingly vigorous. Follow with complementary tea and fruit in the garden, and then float into the Neka Art Museum next door to soak in some work by Balinese artists.
2. Mingle With The Monkeys In A Sacred Forest
Ubud’s macaques moved in quickly when the humans abandoned this 14th century forest temple in the south of town. Today, the ‘Monkey Forest’ is home to more than 1,000 long-tailed Balinese monkeys live here in around 10 extended family groups, coexisting with the humans who wander through their territory. Remember, the monkeys are in charge – keep your valuables hidden (they are cute kleptomaniacs), and don’t confront or disturb them. In return, you will get a rare glimpse into their world. I also saw huge butterflies and lizards as I wandered through this unexpected jungle oasis, and parts of the temple still operate.
3. Eat At One Of Ubud’s New-Generation Restaurants
Ubud’s burgeoning gastronomy scene is worth checking out. I dined at Honey & Smoke, a cosy addition to the city’s food map by Will Meyrick, a Scottish chef who has settled in Bali. It’s known for its open grill – everything, down to the greens, is cooked over it, imbuing a great smokiness. The set menu fuses Balinese ingredients with Turkish flavours, such as scallops with honey and lemon yoghurt, harissa-spiced fish and meat skewers.The restaurant also hosts regular pop-ups with foreign chefs, who leave their own marks on the house menu.
4. Wander Through The Rice Fields
Ubud’s paddy fields are just over 13km from the centre – you’re never far from the vibrant greens of the jungle. Rise early before the sun gets too fierce and set off on a trek through the rice fields and banana plants to catch a glimpse of this traditional way of life – and an hour or two of peaceful contemplation. There are plenty of organised tours around the most scenic fields, including evening walks where you can watch magical swarms of fireflies, an endangered species that live in the fields. If you only have a couple of hours, you can still do the Campuhan Ridge walk, which starts in the town centre and loops through some breathtaking views.
5. Strike Out Beyond The City
An easy day drip out of Ubud will take you to one of the three islands off Bali’s southeastern coast. Nusa Lembongan, the second biggest island, can reached by a 20-minute boat trip from the passenger port at Denpasar, about an hour’s drive south of Ubud. You’ll find a completely different and more rustic way of life to the mainland, as well as some astounding nature – my tour guide took us on a boat trip through a mangrove swamp, which boasted vines that are thousands of years old. I was lucky enough to see a pair of turtles, too – a rare treat, since there are only a few dozen living around the island.
