You might know of Lima as the perfect jumping-off point for embarking on sacred trails, exploring ancient citadels or visiting the Amazon. However, Peru’s capital is so much more than that; it’s an experience all its own – as you will discover in this guide.
Whether you choose to visit before or after witnessing Peru’s more ancient gems, be sure to sample the city’s bars, restaurants and cacophonous markets once the sun has set. There, you’ll find that local spirit pisco is poured both in celebration and sorrow, and that ceviche is just the tip of the legendary culinary scene. You’ll also discover the seduction dance: the marinera.
Here’s our guide for how to best experience Lima, one of Latin America’s greatest capitals, after dark...
Night Markets
For finding your feet (and tastes) on arrival in Lima, practising your Spanish and stocking up on strange and wonderful pantry stashes, markets are a must and make a great pre- (or post-) dinner pitstop. At Mercado 28 Miraflores, open till 1am on weekends, find anticuchos (skewered beef hearts) and Amazonian cocoa-smoked ribs at La Patarashkita, and wash them down with an Inca Kola or chicha morada – a bewitching purple juice made from corn, pineapple skins and spices. Hit Cremería Toscana for its legendary Andean mint gelato. For trinkets and textile souvenirs, head to Barranco’s night market, where you’ll also be able to watch chefs make ceviche in front of you. And on Thursdays through Sundays until 10:30pm, there’s live music and dancing.
Dining Out
A lot of love has been shared for Central – voted the world’s number-one restaurant in 2023 – and for good reason, thanks to its fine dining menu centred around Indigenous Peruvian ingredients. Head to Troppo or Rafael for stunning Italo-Peruvian dishes that reflect the city’s early 19th-century Italian influx. Then try chifa, the Chinese fusion cuisine created in 19th-century Peru at Chifa Titi, which serves beautiful slow-roasted duck. Japanese Limeños also invented Nikkei, a take on sashimi-heavy sushi that honours the gargantuan Peruvian coastline – try it at Osaka.
Drinks
In the district of Barranco you’ll find relaxed, bohemian vibes (at the likes of Bar Piselli 1915 or Victoria, packed with locals necking blonde Cristal beer and tables spilling out onto the street). In the mood for something more upscale? Head to Miraflores, where you’ll find glamorous bars such as Olé Bar. Ask them to whip up a piscotini. It’s a chic alternative to the sharp pisco sour: a straight-up martini with pisco (the clear kind) in place of the gin or vodka.
Dancing
La Noche del Barranco nightclub always delivers with live music and cheap, cold beers. For salsa, hit the rooftop dancefloor at Sargento Pimienta. Or grab a partner and try marinera – the national dance consists of a seduction routine and has roots in Indigenous courtship rituals, Spanish fandango and African zamacueca. Refuel on salty piqueos – Limeños’ slang for tapas and Socosani (this sparkling water fetishist’s agua of choice).
Sleep
Before the sun rises, your carriage to the Belmond Miraflores Park should await. The hotel’s rooftop pool, twinkling views of the city and sea and in-house spa are just what you’ll need to recharge. Art lovers might prefer the 18th-century Barranco townhouse Hotel B, which also boasts rooftop Pacific views, alongside a library and art space. Then there’s less ritzy but romantic guesthouse Antigua, with its own rose garden. Buenas noches.
Alexandra Pereira is a freelance travel writer whose work has appeared in publications including Suitcase, Condé Nast Traveler and Adventure.com
