San Francisco hums with creativity – a city where literary cafes sit next to vintage boutiques, and jazz seeps out of late-night bars like the Boom Boom Room. With a margarita in hand and a live band in full swing, it’s easy to see why people call this the ‘Soho of California: it’s eclectic, magnetic, and impossible to pin down. It’s a bohemian, bookish hub where small businesses thrive, brunch is practically a religion and the nights stretch long past last call. San Francisco has that laid-back California ease – but beneath it all, there’s a pulse, an energy, that keeps you wanting more.
In recent years, its reputation as a foodie destination has been sealed. Its famously diverse patchwork of neighbourhoods means you can find just about any cuisine your heart desires – from hole-in-the-wall dumpling spots to the latest farm-to-table favourites. Stroll through the city’s iconic high streets and you’re never far from a Michelin star (or at least a worthy contender).
But nothing says you’ve arrived in the City By The Bay quite like that first glimpse of the Golden Gate Bridge. With its steep hills, wild parks, stately architecture and sweeping views of land and water, San Francisco has always been a place for dreamers, activists and visionaries. Just one tip: skip the ‘San Fran’ or ‘Frisco’ abbreviations. You’re not Jack Kerouac (though you might end up in one of his old haunts). Around here, it’s simply ‘SF’.
Here, I’ve put together the perfect three-day city break in California’s Golden City. Plus, I’ve also sorted your reading list for while you’re there. If you’re anything like me, you might just be leaving a piece of your heart in San Francisco, too...
Day 1
Check In To... The Fillmore District or NoPa neighbourhood, for a stay where you’re right in the middle of it all. Both are geographically central, so within easy reach of the hotspots mentioned in this guide. Hotel Majestic is a historic spot with an old-school elegance, or I’d rate The Grove Inn – just steps from the iconic Painted Ladies – for a more minimal, local feel.
Get Around By... Foot, bike or bus. The city is walkable, so long as you don’t mind a gradient. Fun fact: Lime bikes actually originated in San Francisco and you can pick one up on most street corners, so getting a little assistance on the hills is always an option. Or, download the MuniMobile app and purchase a day ticket for $5.70 to just jump on and off the buses all day, no need to tap. Fancy calling a cab? Read until the end to find out about the local taxis with no driver...
Start The Day Right At... Mama’s on Washington Square in the North Beach neighbourhood. You’re in safe hands, because Mama’s has been a well-loved San Francisco institution since 1964. Grab a table outside if it’s sunny, or cosy up behind the cafe curtains if it’s cooler. This is a brunch spot that doesn’t skimp on the servings; think huge, bouncy stacks of pancakes with juicy berries and lashings of syrup, or an eggs benedict big enough to leave you almost comatose. But look alive, the day is only just beginning.
Browse For Your Next Read At... City Lights bookstore. A literary meeting place since 1953, this historic bookstore is a favourite haunt of San Francisco’s Beat generation, and its bohemian spirit lives on. While away some time browsing the shelves while dust motes swirl in the light. It stocks lots of favourites (I picked up Slouching Towards Bethlehem) but also specialises in titles from smaller, harder-to-find publishers.
Have A Drink With The Beat Poets At... Vesuvio Cafe. Tucked beside City Lights, this place has been pouring drinks since 1948. This historical bar was established as a hub for artists and writers, and was well-beloved by Kerouac, Ginsberg and the rest. Have a cold beer to refresh, crack open your latest read and soak in the vivid decor of vintage art and stained glass. When you’re ready to move on, take the scenic route through Chinatown to your next stop.
Continue Your Day Of Culture At... SF MOMA. The towering postmodern building houses hundreds of artworks over seven gallery floors. Spacious, serene and impressive, don’t miss Yayoi Kusama’s giant pumpkin or Olafur Eliasson’s One Way Colour Tunnel. The Table Manners exhibition explores dining and food, and there are multiple floors of abstract art to explore.
Make A Reservation At... Che Fico. It’s worth walking through Alamo Square Park to get to dinner for a sunset view of the Painted Ladies (the row of colourful houses that has become synonymous with SF) and the city behind them. Then, end your day of cultural tourism at Che Fico, a slice of Italy in San Francisco’s NoPa neighborhood, which offers a delicious and thoughtful rotating seasonal menu. Start with the white negroni and the fluffiest, lightest focaccia, then get the candy-striped figs wrapped in cured pork. Share the roasted rockfish with beans, pancetta and leeks and wash it all down with a glass (or two) of white wine. It’s buzzy, chic and, if you’re lucky, you might get servers Wilfredo or Adam telling you where all the best nightlife is (spoiler: it’s over in the Mission district – clown party, anyone?).
Have A Nightcap At... Madrone Art Bar. It’s on the same street as Che Fico, so it would be rude not to. Grab a drink, chill on the sofas or get on the dance floor, and this lively dive bar has rotating art installations to browse, too. We went on karaoke night and were treated to a moving, if tuneless, rendition of Amy Winehouse. Then it might be time to call it a night – you have a busy day ahead tomorrow.
Day 2
Start The Day Right With... Breakfast at The Mill. I hope you like toast, because this slice is as thick as a brick. Choose from toppings like lemon zest ricotta and seasonal jam, avocado smash, or egg-in-a-hole (garlic butter: generous). The red brick facade and bright, airy interior make it the perfect San Francisco breakfast spot, and they grind their own flour daily. This is a city famous for its bread, after all.
Get Your Vintage Fix In... Haight-Ashbury. Just a 20-minute stroll from The Mill is Haight-Ashbury, the historic centre of SF’s counterculture movement. It’s a haven for vintage lovers, and Haight Street is lined with excellent retro stores including Blue Bin Vintage, Haight Street Vintage and Wasteland. New wardrobe: check. Dip into the legendary Amoeba Records, too, one of the biggest independent record stores in the world.
Grab A Quick Coffee And A Bagel At... The Sacred Grounds Cafe. After all that shopping, you’ll be needing a light lunch. Just off Haight Street is this lovely community cafe on a quiet corner (which also hosts poetry nights on Wednesdays). I highly recommend the lox bagel.
Rediscover Nature At... Golden Gate Park and the San Francisco Botanical Garden. If you’re ready to swap city streets for something more serene, then a 25-minute stroll through Golden Gate Park will take you to the San Francisco Botanical Garden. This living library of plants from across the globe is the perfect respite from the concrete. Discover towering redwoods, blooming rhododendrons and sun-bathing cactuses. Linger here a while and soak in the natural beauty of SF before things start ramping up for the evening.
Get A Taste Of The Mission At... Loló. No trip to SF is complete without heading to Mission, the vibrant Hispanic and Latino district. For a meal that truly captures the spirit of the neighbourhood, go to Loló. This eclectically decorated Jaliscan-Californian restaurant is the brainchild of Jorge Martínez and his wife, artist Lorena Zertuche, whose playful artworks adorn the walls. They certainly know how to do tequila, tacos and everything in between. Start with a margarita (obviously) and order the ceviche and a Taco Tropical. But the showstopper? The Snowbird cocktail: a mezcal slushy and creamy dessert hybrid. It was definitely one of the most refreshing and unique cocktails I’ve ever had.
Order A Martini At... Lone Palm. After dinner at Loló, we asked Jorge where to go next, and he told us about his favourite martini bar. It’s everything you want when you’re in the mood for a dirty martini – dimly lit, just the right amount of busy and with starched white tablecloths. It feels old-school while being totally modern, and they’ll serve up any martini you ask for.
Day 3
Cold-Plunge Away The Cocktails At... The Dolphin Club. After a night out in the Mission, you might need a little something special to jump-start the day. When I heard that locals swim in the very bay of the City By The Bay, I knew I had to try it. I’d been told the best way to take the plunge is with The Dolphin Club, a swimming and boating club established in 1877. On Mondays, Wednesdays and Fridays, non-members can pay $12 to swim in the refreshingly icy sea in front of the club. The best part? That view of the Golden Gate Bridge between strokes. Priceless. Plus, you can make use of the sauna after your (admittedly) chilly dip.
Get Your Final Brunch In At... Mymy. If you thought you weren’t going to get brunch on your final day, you were sorely mistaken. (You’ll also need it after your swim.) Order the crab cake benedict with lemon dill sauce – you won’t regret it. You’ll see a queue on weekends, but hang around as it does move quickly. If you’re still feeling the buzz of the great outdoors, you’ve got some options...
Fit In An City Hike... In the Presidio. Throw on something gorpcore and take to SF’s protected national park. If you’re feeling adventurous and have lots of hours in the day left, cross the Golden Gate Bridge by foot or bike, and you’ll be in the Marin Headlands. Here, you can hike to your heart’s content with picture-postcard views of the bridge and the surrounding bay. Even if visibility isn’t great (as it tends to be in this city), the bridge looming out of the fog is quite a sight to behold. Or, if you’re feeling a slightly slower pace...
Hunt For Bargains At... The Inner Sunset Flea. Slight catch: this flea is only on the second Sunday of each month, but if your trip magically falls on this day, head there to snap up a few treasures. Haggling is acceptable, particularly if you’re paying cash. I found a vintage San Francisco Giants tee and a gorgeous hand-knitted, TOAST-adjacent jumper. Try Not Latte for an unique mid-afternoon pick-me-up, and Green Apple Books for another literary pitstop on your way to your evening spot.
Make The Most Of Golden Hour At... Baker Beach. This beach on the west side of the city is where golden hour is given its full meaning, with an unparalleled view of the Golden Gate Bridge as the orange sun is consumed by the waves. Nestle your toes in the golden sand as the iconic bridge glows red. The light may be gone, but the day isn’t over yet...
Have Some Small Plates And A Glass Of Wine At... 20 Spot. Yes, I’m taking you back to the Mission, because 20 Spot is a sweet little wine bar on the corner of 20th that’s well worth a visit. Grab a stool at the bar, or lounge on one of the sofas. Or, for somewhere a little closer to your final stop of the trip, head to El Lopo – an intimate, rustic tapas bar on Polk Street.
Round Off The Night At...The Boom Boom Room. The Fillmore District is famous for its historic connections to jazz and blues. Hailed as San Francisco’s funkiest club, the brilliantly named Boom Boom Room has been home to many legendary performers, including Van Morrison and David Bowie. It means it can feel a bit touristy, but locals love it, too. Order a couple of cocktails and dance the night away to a live band.
When Your Feet Get Tired... Get a Waymo home (you deserve it). We didn’t feel like a visit to this city was complete without hopping into one of its driverless (yes, you read that right) taxis. It’s a deeply bizarre experience – very Black Mirror. No need for small talk as there’s literally no cabby, and you can even control the playlist.
And, If You Want To Continue The California Dreamin’... Stay another week and road trip to Big Sur and Yosemite, or down to LA. Marvel at towering redwoods, coastlines that seem to stretch forever, and sunsets that practically demand a slow drive. Add a few iconic stops – Santa Barbara, Malibu, or even a vineyard or two – and you’ll be living the full California dream. And if you have to head straight home but aren’t ready to let go of your trip, dive into these reads to keep the Cali spirit alive...
6 Books To Add To Your California Reading List
Want to get inside the soul of San Francisco before you even land, or while you see the city? These six books are your perfect companions...
Slouching Towards Bethlehem by Joan Didion – Effortlessly chic and Californian, this collection of essays has a chapter on the iconic neighbourhood of Haight-Ashbury.
Valencia by Michelle Tea – A vibrant, chaotic reflection of Michelle Tea’s early twenties in San Francisco’s queer scene in the ’90s. Expect dingy nightclub corners, drug-fuelled all-nighters and sapphic yearning.
Big Sur by Jack Kerouac – In classic unedited Kerouac prose, Jack recounts an attempt to get sober by living alone in Big Sur. But he finds himself drawn back to his San Francisco haunts like the City Lights bookstore and local bars.
Recollections of My Non-Existence by Rebecca Solnit – San Francisco local Rebecca Solnit’s reflections on living in SF in the 80s and forging ahead as an activist. Her book Infinite City: A San Francisco Atlas also brilliantly combines maps of SF in original ways, such as butterfly habitats alongside queer hotspots.
Private Citizens by Tony Tulathimutte – From the same author of Rejection (read our interview with him here) comes Private Citizens, a comic portrait of millennial San Francisco and post-Stanford graduate life.
There There by Tommy Orange – Remember Dua’s Monthly Read For March? It’s set in Oakland, on the east side of the San Francisco Bay, and relays the lives of 12 Native American Indians living in this Californian city.
