The moment you step out at Kuala Lumpur International Airport, be prepared for the wall of humidity that awaits. Malaysia’s tropical climate sustains some of the world’s oldest rainforests, but in the capital city, this warmth also extends to the locals, whose ease with strangers makes you feel at home before you’ve found your bearings.
Years of immigration have resulted in a melting pot of a society, primarily made up of Malays, Chinese and Indian communities who have all contributed to a singular, thrilling cuisine across a city where everyone is welcome. And while there’s plenty of newness to be found in Kuala Lumpur (from listening bars serving up fine cocktails to air-conditioned megamalls), there remains a welcome touch of the old, such as the hawker stalls that stand firm in the face of gentrification, serving dishes passed down through generations.
So grab your sunscreen and prepare your appetite for 72 hours of food, culture and more food in Kuala Lumpur.
Day 1
Check In To The Chow Kit. This boutique hotel, in the lively central neighbourhood after which it’s named, hints at Malaysia’s past through rooms named after the gambling dens that used to be found in the city’s red-light district. It’s within walking distance from plenty of restaurants and bars, so you’ll always find your way home after sunset.
Grab Breakfast At Yut Kee. It’s a meal the Malaysians take seriously, making it worth the 10-minute stroll to KL’s oldest kopitiam (coffee shop) to find out why. Order kaya toast (charcoal roasted bread served with coconut jam) and Milo – a chocolatey milk drink with just enough sugar to shake off any jetlag.
Discover Local Fashion At NEO. Around the corner is this boutique specialising in modern basics with a twist. On your way out, look east (and skywards) for a picture-perfect view of the Petronas Towers.
Spend The Afternoon At Kiku. Hidden on the third floor of an office building, this café-kissa (listening bar) specialises in Japanese snacks and jazz played on vinyl. Start with a coffee and the hojicha cheesecake, ask the barista what’s playing and you might just stay until cocktail hour.
Wander Through Kampung Baru Night Market. Like many hot cities, KL comes to life after sunset and this pasar malam (street market) is open late and a great way to sample several local dishes at once. Be sure to try nasi lemak (pandan-leaf rice with sambal and dried anchovies) and putu (coconut rice steamed in bamboo). End the night with an icy cendol dessert and be so distracted by the glowing cityscape that the 15-minute walk back to the hotel will fly by.
Day 2
Dive Into Culture At The Islamic Arts Museum. After breakfast, order a Grab (the ride-hailing service of choice in KL) and buy tickets on arrival. You’ll be here for hours; it’s stuffed with lavish crockery, books and textiles, and don’t skip the gift shop for the book selection. If you need a moment outdoors, Bird Park, a free-flight aviary that’s home to 3,000 species including hornbills, lories and flamingos, is just next door.
Head For Lunch At Petaling Street Market, just a short taxi ride away in Chinatown. Start at Nam Heong (56 Jalan Sultan) for chicken rice and order tau fu fah (silken tofu and sugar syrup) for dessert at the Kim Soya Bean stall. (Jalan Hang Lekir). Then, it’s time to shop – but skip the fake goods in favour of reasonably priced ceramics at Perniagaan Siew Kum (148, Jalan Tun H S Lee).
Discover Local Architecture Along Jalan Tun H S Lee. On this street, spot the ornate carvings above the entrance to Sri Maha Mariamman Hindu Temple (KL’s oldest), along with the bright red facade of Guan Di Temple, a Taoist place of worship since 1887.
Get A Taste Of Local Life At REXKL. Just a few minutes’ walk away is this cultural centre, where you’ll find stylish people flicking through the racks at boutique O for Others, sipping on a Traditional Chinese Medicine (TCM) mocktail at It’s Herbs or browsing through the selection at BookXcess.
Stop For Dinner At Wawafish – a nearby restaurant serving sour and spicy noodles from China’s Guizhou province, and drip wine – a clarified alcohol from Shanghai that can be infused with unexpected flavours like whisky, bitter gourd or grapefruit. Sit upstairs with your shoes off (really) while staff walk you through the menu.
Sip On A Nightcap At PS150. Push past the door beside the dusty toy cabinet on Petaling Street to follow the snaking hallway into this atmospheric cocktail bar that specialises in Southeast Asian flavours like lychee, coriander and pandan. If you can't choose from the extensive menu, try the monthly special.
Day 3
Start The Day With Breakfast At Bröom – a bakery in the neighbouring city of Petaling Jaya. It’s around a 20-minute Grab away from your hotel, but as you’ll be spending the morning in this shopping and foodie hub, it’s worth the trip. The matcha is always good, as is the pain suisse.
Root For Vintage Gems At Spiral Store, a well-curated shop with friendly staff, before rounding the corner to the One Half concept store for incense and house-roasted coffee, and Fifth for a larger selection of secondhand designer clothing.
For Lunch, Head To Sun Fatt Kee Restaurant and slurp down a bowl of curry noodles. The 75% humidity has never stopped Malaysians from enjoying something hot and spicy and it shouldn’t stop you, either. Order a teh ais (iced milk tea) to cool down afterwards.
Get A Culture Fix At Ilham Gallery, a taxi ride away back in central KL. This free gallery focuses on contemporary Asian art. You could spend an afternoon in its gift shop alone, browsing unique keepsakes by local artisans, plus zines and art books.
Make Your Last Meal One To Remember At Beta – the Michelin-starred restaurant that will take you on a two-hour journey through modern Malaysian cuisine. If you haven’t tried durian yet – KL’s signature fruit – now’s your chance. It’ll likely be incorporated into a dessert that will round off 72 hours in Kuala Lumpur in (delicious) style.
