Think you’ve seen all of Europe? Think again. Armenia – and especially its capital, Yerevan – might just be the continent’s last best-kept secret. Way off the typical tourist trail, this city has a cool, laid-back energy that’s totally its own, probably because it hasn’t been overrun by crowds or cookie-cutter cafés (yet). With a mix of old-school charm, unexpected architecture, and layers upon layers of history (it’s one of the world’s oldest cities), Yerevan is full of the kind of magic you don’t find in travel guides.
Surrounded by cinematic landscapes dotted with towering mountains and snaking fast-flowing rivers, arriving in the city overland by bus or car from one of Armenia’s neighbouring countries is the most fantastical way to begin a long weekend in Yerevan. I did just that one misty autumn morning, hopping into a marshrutka (local minivan) on the outskirts of Tbilisi, Georgia, for the six-hour journey that felt like an immersion into an Andrei Tarkovsky landscape. Skirting neighbouring Azerbaijan and the tip of Lake Sevan, the Caucasus’ natural beauty, interspersed with peaks cradling Brutalist tower blocks, and plenty of bejewelled pomegranate trees, is made for dreaming.
If a slow, meandering journey into Yerevan isn’t practical, Zvartnots International Airport is just a short cab ride away from the city centre, with local ride-hailing app Yandex Go providing an affordable, fuss-free way to make the trip. Yerevan itself has all the trappings of a cool cosmopolitan capital; there are brilliant cafes and restaurants, a smattering of fun street art, ancient buildings and a handful of world-class museums. But what makes the place extra special is its setting.
Watched over by the otherworldly Mount Ararat, a dormant snow-capped volcano in a part of Turkey that was historically Armenian, the peak can be seen from all parts of the city and stands as an emblem of resilience to locals. On clear days, it appears to magically float in layers of rolling white clouds just above the horizon line, and as the principal national symbol of the country, the sacred mountain serves as a constant reminder of Armenia’s cultural identity and layered past.
Curious about visiting the enthralling city too? Here’s how to spend the perfect 72 hours in underrated Yerevan...
Day 1
Check into... One of the sleek, expansive suites at The Dvin, a colossus of a hotel that houses its very own full-size tennis court, rooftop bar and infinity pool with unrivalled city views Rooms strike the perfect balance between laid-back and luxe, with crisp white walls, deep blue tones, gold accents and playful pops of colour. Come nightfall, The Stage – the hotel’s restaurant – offers dinner with a twist, pairing live music with high-energy acrobatic performances.
For travellers who prefer more intimate, homely settings, there’s a good selection of well-priced apartments in town, including my favourite, this self-titled ‘Apartment with craziest moments’. It’s a locally owned, well-located, eccentric place decked out with huge gold-rimmed mirrors, kitsch chandeliers, and coloured glassware.
Soak Up The Local Vibe at... The Armenian Market (also known as the GUM market) on Movses Khorenatsi Street. Start outside at the fruit and vegetable area, where stacked wooden trays overflow with various locally- rown delights, including huge bunches of pink-tinged pale green grapes and bright orange persimmons, before heading into the nearby warehouse-style building to pick up a couple of souvenirs. Be sure to sample sujukh, a sweet snack of threaded walnut halves covered in a thickened grape juice mixture that hardens when dry, and don’t forget to pick up a neatly packaged parcel of dried local fruits and nuts arranged in swirls to take home.
Pause For Lunch At... Grill.am. This hyper-local, lowkey joint is an in-and-out kind of eatery, but don’t let that put you off. The crispy-skinned, incredibly moist rotisserie chicken is served with roast potatoes and fresh paper-thin lavash (a flatbread popular throughout the country). You can also sample neighbouring country, Georgia’s most popular soft drink; Natakhtari flavoured lemonades – pear or tarragon for the win.
Follow The Street Art Trail Along... Moskovyan Street, where fun painted tiles and guerrilla art have popped up in recent years alongside commissioned pieces designed to bring colour and joy to otherwise nondescript buildings. One of the most impressive is a large-scale abstract sound wave painting by Artem Stefanov and a huge mosaic interpretation of the painting My Yard by the late Armenian artist Martiros Saryan.
Book Dinner At... Celeb-favourite restaurant Dolmama, Step inside, and you’ll feel like you’ve travelled back in time with its quirky, chintzy interiors. This Yerevan gem has played host to quite the famous crowd – from King Charles and Paulo Coelho to George Clooney. The must-try is their trademark dolma: herbed, finely chopped meat wrapped up and cooked in vine leaves. Oh, and don’t miss the goat and tarragon stew – it’s seriously delicious.
Day 2
Get Your Caffeine Hit At... Lumen Coffee 1936. Housed in what was previously a tobacco shop, then book shop, this stunning building features the most incredibly ornate hand-painted and carved wooden walls and ceiling. Nab one of the corner seats that are almost built into the wall and watch the morning slip by with a specialty coffee – or coffee-based cocktail, if you’re feeling brave.
Spend Time In And Around... Cascade Complex, the beating heart of the city. This five-terraced, 572-stepped open-air museum, art gallery and water feature affords sweeping views across the city with the mesmerising Mount Ararat hovering majestically in the background. There’s loads to do here: be sure to check out the eclectic mix of sculptures at the foot of the complex, including work by masters Fernando Botero, Lynn Chadwick and Jaume Plensa, before heading inside the Cafesjian Center for the Arts, where local Armenian artists are celebrated. Next, hotfoot it to the top of the complex for those aforementioned views across the city skyline, or continue further still to find the Monumental Terrace and Victory Park filled with retro-style Ferris wheel and funfair rides. You’ll be surprised how quickly the hours just slip away.
Pay Your Respects To... Mother Armenia, standing tall on a pedestal of basalt in Victory park. This female personification of Armenia is a sword-wielding, 22-metre-tall hammered copper statue, designed by Armenian graphic artist and sculptor Ara Harutyunyan. As the embodiment of courage, heroism and victory, the piece watches over the city, showcasing Harutyunyan’s trademark style.
Educate Yourself At... The Armenian Genocide Memorial Complex and Museum. This haunting museum, just outside of the city centre, details the horrors that took place during the two-year-long Armenian Genocide through first-person accounts, film and black and white photography. Aside from the thought-provoking museum, which is free to enter, an eternal flame and memorial monument sit close by, serving as a constant reminder of the 1.5 million Armenians who were killed or forced to flee between 1915 and 1916.
Take A Shot And Catch A Bite At... local-loved Tun Lahmajo. Word on the street is that Armenian’s love a shot of the local moonshine, known as oghi, with the occasional hardcore fan even delighting in the homemade spirit for breakfast. Try it for yourself alongside a cheese-topped lahmajo (rather than breakfast) at atmospheric Tun Lahmajo. Choose from mulberry, dogwood, wild pear and pomegranate flavours, and if you’re lucky, it might just arrive on a round shiny silver tray alongside a plump pickle.
Day 3
Check Out The World’s Oldest Cathedral In... Etchmiadzin. Armenia holds a unique place in spiritual history since it was the first nation in the world to adopt Christianity as its official faith. One of the country’s most sacred sites lies just 18 kilometres from the capital, in the town of Vagharshapat, and it’s believed to be the oldest cathedral in existence. Built in the 4th century, Etchmiadzin Cathedral offers a deeply moving experience, regardless of religion, so it’s worth setting half a day aside to explore its peaceful grounds, working monastery and chapel fully. You can either take a marshrutka or book a taxi through Yandex Go.
Pop Into A... SAS supermarket. Whenever I’m in a new city or country, I love heading into the supermarkets to see what fun and intriguing items I can hunt out. Yerevan’s supermarkets don’t disappoint with whole fridge units stacked completely full of different variations and brands of caviar, as well as lots of cute packaged Alenka chocolate bars adorned with baby doll faces.
Shop One-Off Pieces At... Bazaar Concept Store, one of the main stockists of clothing brand Chopurian, which fuses the classic silhouettes of traditional Armenian garb with contemporary fabrics and flourishes. I’m obsessed with the corseted lace-up Tsovinar dresses and tired multi-layered skirts in contrasting fabrics. Selling one-off handpicked pieces, up-cycled vintage finds and new printed tees, find the fun store on Pushkin Street – but be sure to visit after 1pm as they’re closed during mornings.
Finish The Trip with A Meal At... Sherep, a restaurant named after the ladle, one of the key tools of the Armenian kitchen. Hearty stews, borscht-style soups and comforting meat dishes are the star orders, but the menu is long and varied, ensuring all tastes are catered for. If you haven’t tried Georgian Adjarian khachapuri or khinkali, both are worth an order since Georgian food is extremely popular throughout Armenia and well executed here. The former sees creamy sulguni cheese, two eggs, and an outrageous amount of golden butter atop a boat-shaped mass of freshly baked bread, while khinkali are stubby, filled dumplings best eaten by hand. Sherep’s version is filled with beef, garlic, and spices – order the boiled khinkali for the real deal. It’s a rich, grounding end to a city that serves soul in every sense.
