With its hills, parks, and a Central Business District designed by renowned Japanese architect Kenzō Tange, Abuja is as modern as a city gets. Yet the Nigerian capital is also home to a food scene that’s steeped in tradition.
In a nation of 36 states and one territory, the question of what to eat when you’re in each city becomes confusing. TikTok suggests fufu and jollof rice. But TikTok doesn’t know that those are safe bets found in most West African countries.
So what if you wanted to try the dishes you’ll only find in Abuja? Muneera Tahir, a chef, food consultant and author of the cookbook Nigerian Food Plating, is the expert to know. Tahir, popularly known as Chef Muse, shares the best dishes and food spots in her hometown Abuja – or, as the kids call it, ‘the Buj’.
“The food scene has transformed over the years,” she says. “People are realising the importance of chefs. A decade ago, when people started restaurants, they focused on aesthetics and not cooking. Most of those businesses were short-lived. Now, they partner with chefs. Look around, everyone loves a good meal.”
Muneera Tahir’s 4 Dishes To Try In Abuja
“The dishes in Abuja are native to northerners,” explains Tahir. “My favourite Arewa [the Hausa word for ‘the north’] dishes are...”
- Masa – “A fermented rice cake with a spongy texture.”
- Dambu – “Similar to couscous, but made with tsaki [maize]. Dambu made with broken rice [grilled and chopped rice] is called dambun shinkafa, while dambu made with shredded meat is dambu nama.”
- Suya – “Skewered meat.”
- Sinasir with suya – “A type of rice pancake.”
“What you eat these dishes with is as important as the meals themselves,” adds Tahir. “You should not have suya without yaji [a pepper spice blend], and no two yaji taste the same – they’re all family recipes. Try suya with gurasa [a light bread prepared and baked in a traditional clay oven], too.”
Muneera Tahir’s 5 Restaurants To Visit In Abuja
- L&N Kitchen – An Arewa restaurant, where you’ll find suya. “Suya is a huge staple in Nigeria,” says Tahir. “In Abuja, suya is [more varied], we have balangu (ram suya) and tsire (suya on sticks).”
- University of Suya – An idiom in Nigeria goes, The food tastes like it went to university – meaning it’s delicious. University of Suya draws inspiration for its name from the joke. “This is in Zone 4, the suya is exceptional,” says Tahir.
- The Street Food Park at Area 1 – “Another must-try dish is kilishi [a spicy form of beef jerky], but the joy is the journey,” says Tahir. “There is a park at Area 1 where dozens of sellers say, ‘Come and taste mine.’ Taste all! Then buy the one you like best. The fun is in the tasting.”
- Mimies Homemade – This must-try restaurant operates for three to four days a month at the Meethaq Hotel. “[It’s] a pop-up – blink and you have to wait another month,” says Tahir. The best way to time your visit is to check the Instagram account.
- Burgundy – A fine-dining pan-African restaurant, serving modern updates on Abuja classics. “It began with pop-ups and now there is the restaurant,” says Tahir.
Chinazam Ikechi-Uko is a Lagos-based freelance journalist, covering culture, fashion and lifestyle for titles including Marie Claire Nigeria, The 49th Street and Anikela
