Sri Lankan cuisine has scattered itself across the world, carried by families from Colombo and Jaffna into kitchens in London, Sydney, Singapore and Melbourne. Sometimes the cuisine stays as true to its roots as it can, sometimes it is reshaped by the city it lands in. A hopper in Wembley is not quite a hopper in Hiriketiya, and a Jaffna crab curry tastes different depending on which coastline that crab came from.
We went to the people who cook this food for a living and asked where they go when someone else is doing the cooking. Their answers move between Michelin Bib Gourmand dining rooms and roadside pitstops to the restaurants that raised them and the ones they've only just discovered.
Together, they form a map of Sri Lankan food as it actually exists today: rooted in one island, spoken in a dozen accents and worth chasing wherever you find it.
Viveik Vinoharan, head chef at Dutch Rules Distilling Co, Melbourne
Viveik has packed a lot of culinary experience into his 29 years. The Sydney-born Sri Lankan chef has been classically trained in French, Italian and Japanese cuisine, was named The Age Good Food Guide’s Young Chef of the Year for 2026 and recently took up the position of head chef at Dutch Rules Distilling Co in Melbourne. There, he’s blending Sri Lankan flavours with Australian cuisine – something he finds incredibly nostalgic. “It reminds me of growing up, being surrounded by a ridiculous amount of delicious food, family and friends,” he says.
The Sri Lankan Restaurants On His List
1. Ambepussa Rest House, Ambepussa “Hands down one of my favourite restaurants in Sri Lanka. It’s perfectly situated for those travelling between Kandy and Colombo, or those heading to Pinnawala Elephant Orphanage. It’s a buffet-style feast – I’d recommend getting there early to pig out on the hoppers and idiyappam.”
2. X Dreams Dine In and Takeaway, Sydney “A great Sri Lankan restaurant in Sydney, very small and located right opposite the train station. I’m a sucker for its lamb kothu roti and, in my opinion, some of the best hoppers around.”
3. Kotuwa, Singapore “Although I haven‘t been yet, Rishi [Naleendra]’s Kotuwa is definitely up there for me. Having visited Cheek by Jowl [Rishi’s previous Michelin-starred restaurant in Singapore] many times back in the day, I’m keen to try it out. Also, the fit out! It’s such a fun homage to Sri Lanka.”
Eroshan and Aushi Meewella, founders of Kolamba and Kolamba East, London
The two London outposts of Kolamba are based around recipes passed down through generations. The menu features dishes from founders Eroshan and Aushi’s childhoods in Colombo, highlighting the diversity of the capital through influences from Sinhalese, Tamil, Moor, Burgher and Malay communities. “After any trip away, all we really want is a chicken curry, dhal and rice,” says Eroshan. “It is the most comforting meal in the world and the thing we find ourselves craving the moment we land.” Here’s where they turn to when the cravings hit.
The Sri Lankan Restaurants On Their List
1. Machan Kitchen, London “Brilliant Sri Lankan food in Farringdon. Order the goat curry.”
2. Palmyrah, Colombo “A Colombo institution run by a dear friend’s family. The best Jaffna cooking in the city and has been for over 40 years. The mutton poriyal and milk hoppers are the ones to go for.”
3. Raa, Hiriketiya “A beachfront spot on the south coast that has become one of our favourite places to eat anywhere in Sri Lanka. The lagoon prawns are extraordinary. Go at sunset.”
4. Kotuwa, Singapore (again!) “Chef Rishi Naleendra is cooking the food of his roots,” they say. “It holds a Michelin Bib Gourmand and deserves every bit of it. The crab is the reason to go.”
Don Ranasinghe & Lalla Perera, co-founders of Smoke & Bitters and Raa, Hiriketiya, Sri Lanka
If you find yourself in Hiriketiya on Sri Lanka’s south coast, the chances are you’ll have been told to head to Smoke & Bitters: the island’s highest ranked entry on the Asia’s 50 Best Bars list. Founders Don and Lalla (Lahiru) were both born in London to Sri Lankan families. After successful careers in London, Sri Lanka called – where they set up Smoke & Bitters and their latest venture Raa (which also made the Asia’s 50 Best extended list this month). “For such a small island, we have so much diversity in our food,” says Don, who heads up bar operations. “It’s comforting, full of flavour and reminds me why I’m so proud of our cuisine,” adds chef Lalla. Here’s where they turn to for authentic dishes.
The Sri Lankan Restaurants On Don’s List
1. Ministry of Crab, Colombo “A Sri Lankan icon.”
2. Kotuwa, Singapore (again!) “For modern Sri Lankan food when you’re abroad.”
3. Rambutan, London “Soulful home-style cooking.”
4. Malayan Cafe, Jaffna “A menu deeply rooted in heritage.”
The Sri Lankan Restaurants On Lalla’s List
1. Mo’s Wembley, London “Authentic Jaffna-style cooking done really well.”
2. Dahami, Hiriketiya “Simple village cooking with incredible local flavour.”
3. Kolamba Kadè, Colombo “Highlights Colombo’s vibrant food heritage, shaped by the city’s diverse ethnic influences.”
4. Kotuwa, Singapore (again!) “A modern interpretation of Sri Lankan flavours done exceptionally well.”
Karan Gokani, co-founder and creative director of Hoppers, London
Often, when we think of Sri Lankan food, we think of hoppers. And if you think of hoppers in London, the Michelin Bib Gourmand restaurants with the same name spring to mind. There are four across the city, serving up menus inspired by Karan’s travels across Sri Lanka. “I’m always inquisitive about how people are representing the food,” he says. “While I usually like to eat local food when travelling, I do try and check out any popular Indian and Lankan restaurants. It helps me understand which end of the diners’ taste buds lie.”
The Sri Lankan Restaurants On His List
1. Nuga Gama, Colombo “My go-to for unique village food when in Colombo. Consistent and interesting.”
2. Palmyrah, Colombo (again!) “Great for hoppers and a big family meal.”
3. Dutch Burgher Union, Colombo “The OG for lamprais and ginger beer.”
4. Cloudstreet, Singapore “Rishi Naleendra is doing exciting things. I would love to eat and cook with him.”
