Ukrainian Designer Ksenia Schnaider On Creating A Collection In A Warzone

For the second time since Russia’s invasion of Ukraine in 2022, Ukrainian Fashion Week returned to Kyiv, once again proving that creativity and resilience can thrive even in the face of such extreme adversity. After its symbolic comeback last September – marking a moment of hope and defiance – the event, held last weekend, reaffirmed its role as a powerful testament to the endurance of Ukrainian culture and creativity.

This season, 40 designers channelled that same spirit into their AW25 collections, working under the theme ‘Hope for the Future’. Against the backdrop of an ongoing war, their creations spoke not only of survival but of optimism, strength and a determination to shape a new tomorrow through fashion.

One of the standout designers this season was KSENIASCHNAIDER, the contemporary womenswear brand founded in 2011 by husband-and-wife duo Ksenia and Anton Schnaider known for their innovative approach to upcycling and reworking deadstock fabrics.

Rather than being guided by commercial demands, for this collection, the duo embraced pure creative exploration. Titled ‘Think Inside the Box’, it pushed beyond the conventional boundaries – quite literally – experimenting with geometric forms and exaggerated silhouettes to redefine their aesthetic a bold new way.

Service95 sat down with Ksenia to discuss her creative process, what it’s like to work against the backdrop of war, and why this collection marks the start of a new era for the brand.

THERE’S NO SUCH THING AS A TYPICAL DAY ANYMORE... Since the war in Ukraine began, life has become unpredictable. I had to relocate to the UK, and for the past three years, I’ve been working between two countries.

When I’m in Kyiv and there are no air raid sirens, I like to start my day early with a coffee at one of my favourite bakeries, such as Spelta, Honey Cafe or Bakehouse, before heading to the studio to work with my production team on the collection. In the afternoons, I prefer to be at our flagship store, where I can meet clients and friends.

In the UK, I work from home – taking my daughter to school, working out and then spending the day on Zoom with my team in Ukraine. Recently, I’ve also found myself working in airports, train stations, cafes, hotels – anywhere I happen to be.

NOW, I CAN WORK FROM ANYWHERE... I don’t care much about the physical environment; I care about the energy and the people around me. The past three years, as a refugee, have taught me how to work from the bomb shelter, the parking lot, a friend’s kitchen, my bedroom. I can now concentrate on my work under almost any circumstances, as I know everything I have is today and work has to be done. Now, for me, it’s less about the space and more about staying productive and focused, no matter where I am.

MY WORKING SOUNDTRACK DEPENDS ON THE SETTING... My co-creative partner, Anton, needs music or background noise, so when we’re working together, he’s in charge of the playlist. For focus, Anton listens to either this app that creates ambient sound – Sound Temple – or anything by the artist Comechelet, for background and vibe. When I’m alone, I prefer silence. The only time I really need music is during fittings, castings, and shoots – it helps set the mood for the models and brings the energy of the collection to life. If we don’t have a specific song or a show soundtrack, we can just turn on NTS radio.

I’M ALWAYS INSPIRED... Life is beautiful. If I ever feel unsure about which creative direction to take, I talk it through with Anton. We brainstorm together, and that always leads to the right solution.

DESIGNING THIS COLLECTION BROUGHT TRUE CREATIVE FREEDOM... We focused on square silhouettes and played with cubic shapes – it was almost like going back to being students; a complete creative reset for our team. Anton first designed the garments in 3D, and then I translated them into fabric, mainly denim. The pattern development alone took over a month, with multiple fittings and failed samples before we finally got it right.

This is our first non-commercial collection – pure creativity. We weren’t concerned with merchandising or sales goals; we just played and had fun. We decided to explore our creativity and it was such an enjoyable experience. It was an art-school-level move, almost naive in its directness, but that’s what makes it so fun, bold, and strangely liberating. The entire KSENIASCHNAIDER team found themselves laughing and embracing the absurdity.

THE UKRAINIAN ARTISTS I DEEPLY ADMIRE ARE... Kazimir Malevich, Maria Prymachenko, Alla Horska, Zhanna Kadyrova, and the Synchrodogs duo. Their artworks are different and my choice is quite random, but their names just came to me..

PURSUE WHAT GENUINELY EXCITES AND INTERESTS YOU... Only through true passion can you become the best at what you do. It also gives you the confidence to have a strong point of view, since your work comes from a place of meaning rather than obligation.