“Why would you go to Switzerland in September?” That’s the first response I got when I told a friend I was heading to St Moritz earlier this month. “That’s where you ski, right?” She wasn’t totally wrong – the Alpine town is a beautiful place in winter, having hosted the Winter Olympics twice and playing home to of the Cresta Run (the bobsled track made of natural ice). But when I’ve always thought of Switzerland, I picture one thing: the hand-drawn cover of my childhood copy of Heidi – the classic tale of a young girl who moves to the Swiss Alps to live with her grandfather – all surrounded by lush greenery, bright blue skies and snow-topped mountains in the distance.
Enter, St Moritz. Close to the Italian border, this picturesque pocket of southeastern Switzerland sits 1,856 meters above sea level: cue plenty of sunshine, unreal scenery and, yes, powdery plains of snow in those winter months. But in September, St Moritz remains beautifully green, sitting at around a sun-washed 18°C, with a gentle breeze rippling across its lake, wafting the scent of pine through the streets as you explore its shops, restaurants and surprising number of galleries. It makes sense, then, that St Moritz began as a summer destination, when British tourists began to travel there for wild swimming, hiking, sailing and generally breathing in all of that fresh mountain air.
If you’re wondering if there’s genuinely enough to do in a town so well-known for wintry activities for most of the year? Honestly, yes. Three days of exploring the town, filling up on cheese, chocolate and Swiss vodka martinis and mountain strolls (it takes a lot for me to escape into nature, so you know it must be special) was a genuine tonic. I haven’t felt so rested in a long time. Heidi had a point – fresh Alpine air really does do you good.
So, whether you’re in need of some down time, a deep-dive into nature, a foodie indulgence or a thrill-seeking adventure, you’ll find it all in this postcard-perfect town. (I literally brought postcards home with me to hang up at home as a memento – it’s that divine.) Here’s everything you need to know to get the most out of St Moritz in three days, though I wouldn’t blame you for staying longer...
Day 1
Start Early... Unless you’re a local, no matter where you’re travelling from, getting to St Moritz will take you a few hours at least. But trust me when I say that the journey is part of the experience. If you’re flying in, Zurich and Milan are your nearest airports. From there, hop on a train (on SBB railways from Zurich, or the Bernina Express from Milan) or two (don’t be put off by the changes, the Swiss railways are so easy to navigate) and sit back and enjoy the countryside scenes. If you’re hungry, many Swiss trains have a restaurant car, where you can enjoy table service for breakfast, dinner and everything in between.
Get The Best Views By... Choosing your seat wisely. When travelling by train from Zurich to St Moritz, sit on the left side on the first train for expansive lake views, then on the right side for the second train, for the finest views of the UNESCO World Heritage site it passes through – from rolling hills to lakes running through deep valleys, not to mention that iconic shot of the train going over the Landwasser Viaduct. From Milan, be sure to sit on the left to soak in the glaciers and viaducts en route.
Check In To... Grace La Margna St Moritz – a beautiful hotel in a historic 20th century building, perched right by the train station on the edge of Lake St. Moritz. (Seriously, it will take you less than five minutes to get off the train and step through its doors.) While the building is a classic landmark, originally designed by celebrated architect Nicolaus Hartmann, who created many of the area’s iconic buildings, the interiors (and new extension) blend tradition with modern luxury – all high ceilings and stone columns, with marble bathrooms and plush carpets. The best of both worlds.
Stretch Your Legs... With a stroll through the town. Shops, restaurants and cafes are a few minutes walk in one direction from the hotel; in the other, the lake lies five minutes downhill. Head to the town first, stopping first for a coffee from Café Belmont – a bright, airy cafe by day and wine bar come evening – and then order an exceptionally light and fluffy beignet at Hanselmann – a bakery and confectioners that looks like something out of a fairytale – to enjoy down by the lake.
Get Your Bearings With... A sail on Lake St. Moritz, because the best way to see the town and mountains in full is from the water. Walk down to Segel-Club St. Moritz (again, just five-minutes from either the town or the hotel, where the team can book this experience for you), where you can either go out on the water with a skipper, or sail yourself. The sailing club also has kayaks and paddle boards, if that’s more your thing. While the lake might not look huge from land, you’ll need a full hour to soak in all the sights (my friendly skipper pointed out all the historic landmarks and gave tips on where to visit in the town).
Take A Minute To Reset... At the spa. On the hotel’s lowest floor, you’ll find an expansive space of zen – plenty of huge white armchairs and loungers to sink to with, of course, mountain views; Aesop products dotted everywhere; a shimmering blue pool; a hot tub big enough to be a pool and, of course, the saunas. There’s a salt sauna, bathed in warm pinkish light; a Finnish sauna, for when you’re ready to up the temperature; a steam room scented with just enough eucalyptus to clear your senses; an ice station and the emotional shower. Yes, that’s a thing: a dark rainfall shower that fills with steam, providing a sensory experience that really does hit you in the feels.
Get Your Tastebuds Going At... The View, the hotel’s fine dining restaurant where every table comes with, unsurprisingly, a view. Head there at dusk to see the skies turn pink and the sun dip behind the mountains. Here you’ll find some excellent dining options, so after a day of exploring you don’t need to venture far for good food. Taking inspiration from its nearby Mediterranean borders, expect a menu of pastas (order the risotto!), succulent meats and some great small plates to start – the carrot tartare in a passion fruit dressing was a surprising hit.
Wind Down With A Nightcap... At N/5, the hotel’s bar – you have to physically walk through it to get to your room, so it’d be rude not to. Lined with floor-to ceiling wine fridges and a backbar of dreams, you can find everything from an aged Scotch to a classic cocktail, but the inventive menu is worth exploring. The Gold Martini, made with gold-flecked Swiss vodka, was enough to convert me from my usual gin. Then, you’ll be ready to sink into your cloud of a bed – fill out your room service menu for tomorrow’s breakfast and if you have a lake-facing room, be sure to keep your curtains open so that you can...
Day 2
Start The Day With... Sunrise from your bed. Make a brew and watch as the morning mist creeps its way across the lake and the clouds begin to lift above the mountains. Then wait for a gentle knock as the friendliest staff wheel in your breakfast: hot drinks, fresh juice, baskets of warm bread and pastries are included in the price of your room. Finally, it’s time to...
Head Into The Mountains... The beauty of visiting St Moritz in warmer climes means there are several ways to get up there. You can hike (find details of the best routes here – it’ll take about 1.5 hours on foot to get to where we’re going), take a cable car or jump on a ski lift (the hotel can arrange passes for you). We took a taxi to St Moritz Suvretta hill (or it’s about a 50-minute walk from the hotel) to get the Chasselas chairlift up to the Suvretta mountain station. There’s nothing like watching the expansive greenery unfold beneath you as the chair begins to rise.
Take It All In... From the mountaintop. Even in September, while the skies are sea-blue and the forests a deep green, you’ll notice that the very tips of the Engandin mountains are bathed in snow. (Fittingly, the 2015 movie of Heidi was filmed in this very Alpine valley – you can even hike to the cottage!) There are benches dotted around the trails – perfect pit-stops to simply soak up the scenery and fresh air.
Grab Lunch In The Sky... At Paradiso – a restaurant and bar eight minutes from the top of the chairlift. The name is fitting: book a table on the edge of the terrace for uninterrupted views of the shimmering Lake Champfèr in nearby Silvaplana. Here, the food is primed for post-activity in any season (skiing, hiking, biking), so expect hearty dishes of rotisserie chicken, a cracking burger with slow-roasted onions and, of course, fondue. There’s also an excellent wine and cocktail menu – toast to your trip with a blanc de blancs and perhaps finish with a spritz in the sun. Just remember, you have another chairlift ride down...
Soak Up Some Culture At... One of the town’s many art galleries and museums. From the bottom of the ski lift, you can walk into town (around half an hour, or minutes by car or bus). The St Moritz art scene is pretty impressive – you’ll find a Swiss outpost of Hauser & Wirth Gallery for modern and contemporary works, painting and sculpture at Galerie 10 and works by local artists at Galerie Von Opel. A real highlight is the Segantini Museum – a standout domed structure from 1908 you’ll have spotted from your boat ride, housing the work of 9th century Italian painter Giovanni Segantini, known for his paintings of the Alps. You’ll also find beautiful still-lifes and melancholic portraits, not to mention his towering triptych in the domed roof of the building. It really is a must-see.
Stop For Some Retail Therapy... On your way back to the hotel, if you’re feeling flush. St Moritz has a reputation for the finer things in life, and nowhere is this more evident than its shops. Boutiques from fashion’s elite line its streets, from Chanel to Celine. On the less high-end of the scale, the souvenir shops are actual gems, full of cute trinkets, genuinely nice tea towels to take home for your Nana and surprisingly chic accessories – head to the St Moritz tourism office on Via Maistra, which looks more like a concept store, for cute caps and sweatshirts you’ll actually want to wear when you get home. (Not an ad, they’re that nice.)
Get The Full Alpine Dining Experience... With traditional fondue at Stüvetta, an “ode to Swiss comfort” that made the Condé Nast Traveler Hot List 2025. It also happens to be in the hotel, for an added bonus. While there are other options on the menu, from rösti to pizzettas, the cheese fondue is the star of the show. Add extra truffle, fries, plenty of pickles and some charcuterie and get dipping. You will be there for hours. You will pair it with glass after glass of rich-yet-not-overpowering red wine. And you will leave deeply satisfied.
Day 3
Go Big On Breakfast... It’s your last day, so head for a hotel breakfast unlike any other. At Grace La Margna, breakfast is a wonderfully lengthy affair. Start with coffee and pastries from the selection brought to your table, before ordering a hot dish cooked fresh by the chefs (the ricotta and fig toast is next-level) – or you can choose from a buffet of fresh cheeses, fruit and cereals. Then, wait for the croissant trolley: flaky, freshly baked pastries ready to be filled with your choice of chocolate or caramel. Even if you’re full, take one to go (they’ll pack it up for you) to enjoy on the train ride later.
Get Into Nature... With a trip to Lej da Staz lake, which is a picturesque 40-minute walk in the opposite direction to the town, or a 10-minute e-bike ride (you can rent one from the Skiservice Corvasch shop within the hotel, and you might need that extra power for the hills). Wind your way through the woods, passing private chalets and the odd horse on your way, before reaching the clearing. If you get to Lej da Staz in the morning, you’ll have it virtually all to yourself. This lake is much smaller than St Moritz, so it’s perfect for wild swimming. But before you dip...
Find Calm With... An outdoor yoga class on the jetty overlooking the lake. This can be arranged by the hotel, or many local yoga instructors host classes out here (you can find them easily with a quick Google!). There’s nothing like going through a gentle flow with the sun on your back, watching the mountains reflect in the rippling lake, with only the sounds of the breeze and the odd bird landing by the water in the background. Jumping in the lake after is technically optional, but totally magical.
Time To Indulge... After all that wellness at Hauser Confiserie, the family-run confectioners dating all the way back to 1892. You can just stop to stock up on chocolates to take home, but keep an eye out for its workshops, where you can decorate and make your own chocolate figure to take home. It’s such a fun experience!
Refuel With... Lunch in the Hauser restaurant, while you wait for your chocolate to set. Whether you opt for a hot dish, a homemade sandwich (the salami option is unreal) or one of its many cakes, you will leave satisfied. Local tip: during the peak season, the Hauser restaurant comes alive in the evening – its outdoor bar is the spot to grab a drink, mingle and listen to music.
Have One Last Cappuccino... In the hotel’s living room of the hotel (they come printed with cute messages for the obligatory photo opp), overlooking the mountains, as you collect your bags and wait for your train. It’s so close, you genuinely can leave 10 minutes before you’re due to set off (if you already have your tickets) and you’ll be there in plenty of time. That’s the thing about St Moritz – life just feels easier there, making the leaving hard. Fortunately, you have a picturesque train ride ahead of you to prepare for your return to reality...
Travel Tips: What To Pack & How To Get Around For A Seamless Swiss Trip
Fly With... Swiss International Air Lines (SWISS). One-way fares start from £76 to Zurich and from £54 to Geneva, including all fees and a checked suitcase. Come winter, SWISS will also transport your first set of ski or snowboard equipment for free (subject to availability, excludes hand-luggage-only). swiss.com
Once You’re There, Explore With... Travel Switzerland Public transport is the best way to get around and, bonus, the trains, buses and boats all offer panoramic views throughout your journey. Tickets start at £40; Swiss Travel Passes start at £229 for three days. travelswitzerland.com
Plan Your Trains Using... The SBB Mobile App. It’s super easy to use and shows the most up-to-date information including timings, how full each train carriage is and, importantly, where you’ll find the restaurant car.
Download... The MeteoSwiss App for accurate weather forecasts – in St Moritz in particular, you can experience four seasons in a day! This app will let you know when the sun is set to shine, and when to cosy up indoors.
Pay With... Your bank card – pretty much everywhere accepts contactless payment. The local currency is Swiss Francs, should you need cash.
Pack The Right Adaptor... A Multi-Adaptor Plug Convertor, to be exact – not the standard continental plug you might be used to using in Europe! For charging your phone and camera, ready for all the pictures you’ll want to take.
Check Your Insurance... Make sure it covers any extra activities, like sailing or going up on the ski lifts. And UK residents, don’t forget your Global Health Insurance card (GHIC) card!
