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My Hometown: Composer Ólafur Arnalds Maps The Soul Of Reykjavík, From Legendary Ice Cream Stops To The Local Hotspots Worth Seeing

By Hena SharmaJuly 14, 2025
My Hometown: Composer Ólafur Arnalds Maps The Soul Of Reykjavík, From Legendary Ice Cream Stops To The Local Hotspots Worth Seeing

In a quiet Reykjavík studio, where snow often falls soundlessly against the windowpanes, Ólafur Arnalds composes music that resonates far beyond Iceland’s shores – from Hollywood blockbusters like The Hunger Games to British crime dramas such as Broadchurch. His work has taken him from Tokyo to Los Angeles, but Reykjavík remains his creative anchor. “There’s something special about this place,” he says – a sentiment that helps explain why, despite international acclaim and a BAFTA win, he’s never felt the need to leave the city he’s always called home. 

Olafur Arnalds standing in his homebuilt studio
“Just minutes into our conversation, it’s clear that Ólafur holds a deep appreciation for the quiet beauty and culture of Iceland.” Photo: Hena Sharma

Just minutes into our conversation, it’s clear that Ólafur holds a deep appreciation for the quiet beauty and culture of Iceland: “The silence and the nature,” he says, as well as the outdoor swimming pools, naturally warmed by geothermal energy. Reykjavík and its surrounding landscapes offer him more than just a backdrop; they’re places to wander, to lose himself in the mountains and to reconnect. That sense of stillness seeps into his music: meditative, cinematic and richly electronic compositions that mirror the emotional clarity one might experience on Icelandic terrain. Often built around delicate piano melodies, heart-tugging string arrangements and intricately layered samples, Ólafur’s work has a way of awakening creativity – not just in listeners, but in artists across disciplines. Celebrated author and Nobel laureate Olga Tokarczuk, (who was Dua’s Monthly Read author for January), included his track Saman on her playlist of inspirations (listen to it here) while writing Drive Your Plow Over The Bones Of The Dead.  

A scenic photo of Iceland's natural landscape, featuring waterfalls and mountains
“Just minutes into our conversation, it’s clear that Ólafur holds a deep appreciation for the quiet beauty and culture of Iceland.” Photo: Unsplash

His collective, Opia Community, began humbly as a Discord server – one of the many artist-led digital spaces for fans to gather, where ideas are exchanged and creative relationships are built. What started as a modest online hub has since evolved into something far more ambitious: a vibrant social platform, a record label championing emerging local talent and even a travelling festival. At the heart of it all, though, is Ólafur’s quiet but unwavering commitment to authenticity – and to using music as a form of service, especially to his creative community in Iceland. 

That same spirit of connection and sincerity runs through his new album, A Dawning (out now). It’s a beautiful, celebratory and unmistakably melancholic work – one that carries a profound emotional weight. Ólafur recorded much of it in this very studio: a serene, instrument-filled space crafted with natural materials and lit by vintage industrial lamps. It was in this warm and reflective environment that he began working on the album alongside his close friend, the late musician Eoin French – known to many as Talos. A Dawning marks Ólafur’s latest release and, heartbreakingly, Eoin’s last. 

Working together on music in a studio - Olafur Arnalds and Eoin French
Ólafur Arnalds and Eoin French working on Sounds from a Safe Harbour, 2023. Photo: Brid O’Donovan

Ólafur and Eoin first met at a writing camp in Belfast, quickly forming a deep musical bond. They began travelling between their home islands – Iceland and Ireland (specifically West Cork) – crafting songs shaped by friendship, place and emotion. Partway through the project, Eoin was diagnosed with cancer. After his passing, Ólafur vowed to finish the album. “After he was gone, it became a way for us and our friends to connect around something he had created,” he says. “It helped us feel better.” Piecing together voice notes and unfinished takes, Ólafur gently assembled the album. 

Though grief runs through the record, so do love, healing and the quiet endurance of friendship. For Ólafur, music became a vessel – to hold onto Eoin, to honour his voice and to create something lasting. Made without commercial intent, the album bought Ólafur to the root of why he makes music. It also reconnected him to Iceland’s ancient traditions, where song was a communal act: a way to grieve, remember and celebrate the moments shared. 

Album cover of 'A Dawning' with sketches by Eoin French
The cover of A Dawning, Ólafur’s new album. Artwork drawn by Talos

That sense of connection, memory and place runs deep in Ólafur’s everyday life in Reykjavík, too – a city that continues to ground and inspire him. Below, he shares his favourite places to eat, drink and wander in his beloved hometown... 

My Favourite Places To Eat are... Plantan – one of the few fully vegan restaurants in the country. It’s located on 64 Njálsgata road, right next to one of the swimming pools, so it’s very convenient – go swimming, then go to the cafe. Normally, I’d get the soup of the day but they also have amazing sandwiches and ever-changing ‘dishes of the day’. Primavera, near Grandi Harbour in Marshall House in Downtown Reykjavík is also great if you’re after some fine dining in a slightly more casual setting. 

Photos of restaurant Primavera. Left - a table with wine and golden light. Right - a panna cotta with berries and green shaven ice
Restaurant Primavera in Downtown Reykjavík

Then there’s ÓX, which has a Michelin star (and a Michelin Green star for their sustainability efforts), where you can expect superfine dining. Going there to eat is an incredible experience. You can’t reserve a table like you would at a normal restaurant, but you show up and if you’re lucky to get a table, you’re led into a room that’s decorated like an old Icelandic living room, with throwback Icelandic TV shows playing on different screens. After starters, you’re taken into the main dining room, which seats just 17 diners. You sit communally and it’s such a beautiful example of how food brings people together.  

If You’re Looking For A Night Out With A Great Vibe... Tiu Sopar in Reykjavík’s Miðborg district is a really fun natural wine bar and restaurant. It’s run by the people who own it, so again, it’s very homey. You also don’t really have to order, they just kind of feed you based on their own reccs... 

A dinner table featuring wine, bread and traditional pickles
Natural wine bar Tiu Sopar in Miðborg

For An Arty Fix, I Love Visiting... Nýlistasafnið, the Living Art Museum. I’m especially drawn to young, more contemporary artists, and am a huge fan of Icelandic artist Ragnar Kjartansson, whose performance work has been featured there in the past. One of his most iconic pieces, The Visitors (2012) – a deeply moving multi-screen video installation – is, in my opinion, one of the greatest artworks ever made. It gives you goosebumps. You can still catch it at major galleries worldwide – right now, it’s on view at the San Francisco Museum of Modern Art (until 28 September 2025). 

You’re Always Guaranteed A Delicious Pastry And Coffee At... Hygge, which is walking distance from the Maritime Museum. It’s named after the Danish word for “cosy”, and the vibe definitely lives up to the name. Right now, I think they serve the best coffee in town, and their pastries are seriously good. My go-to order? An Americano with avocado toast, and maybe a croissant if I’m lucky. I’d say Brauð & Co. (which has seven locations across the city, due to popular demand!) is the best bakery, especially when it comes to pastries – their sourdough bread and traditional Icelandic buns are excellent. Their flagship store is at Frakkastígur 16 if you want to check out where it all began.  

Traditional Icelandic buns and a coffee
Coffee shop and cafe Hygge (left), and bakery Brauð & Co. (right)

The One Place I Go To Unwind Is... Vesturbæjarlaug in the Vesturbær (West Town) district, which is my favourite swimming pool. It’s a huge hit with locals – I’m almost afraid of more people discovering it! It’s one of those pools that has stayed low-key and very local. In Iceland, ‘going swimming’ isn’t really about swimming – it’s more about soaking in the hot pots and talking, usually about politics. Vesturbæjarlaug is where you’ll find the old Communists showing up at 7am, still arguing about Karl Marx. I love it. They’re grumpy, opinionated – but it’s real. And, somehow, sitting there in warm water, surrounded by chatter and steam, feels genuinely healing. It’s like a spa, but with actual conversation. 

People swimming in Vesturbæjarlaug swimming pool
Vesturbæjarlaug swimming pool

The Snack Stop Not To Be Missed Is... Valdis, a beloved gelato spot on Grandagarður 21 known for its bold Icelandic flavours – like liquorice, which happens to be one of my favourites. It’s a must-visit if you want to try something a little different (and, again, very local). Icelanders love having ice cream all year-round. It’s completely normal to see a line outside an ice cream shop in the middle of December, with people eating cones in their cars after a long drive. Ísbúð Vesturbæjar, which has multiple locations (the main being Hagamelur 67), is the go-to for traditional Icelandic-style soft serve, often with sweets, liquorice and crushed-up chocolate bars all mixed in, locally known as Bragðarefur. Cold weather or not, it hits every time. 

Icecream with mix ins at Ísbúð Vesturbæjar
An icecream at Ísbúð Vesturbæjar

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