7 Visionaries Who Stole The Show At New York Fashion Week

Season after season, there are a handful of heavy-hitting powerhouse brands on the schedule for New York Fashion Week, whose shows spark immense anticipation among the style set. Whether that’s due to their longstanding legacy, bold statements, a new Creative Director or are returning to the states after venturing out to Paris or Milan.

But any well-seasoned fashion veteran will tell you that some of the best collections come from the names that you might not recognise – and that sentiment could not have been more true for Fall/Winter 2025. Some of these names are up-and-coming, others have been around for years waiting to catch their stride – but they are all worth having on your radar.

So, if you’re not yet familiar with the new vanguard of New York design talent, it’s time to get acquainted...

GRACE GUI  

The Visionary: You’ve most likely heard of farm-to-table dining. But what about farm-to-fashion collections? Well, Brooklyn-based designer Grace Wang is doing just that with her new eponymous knitwear label, Grace Gui. By raising silkworms, caring for angora rabbits, and sourcing fibres locally, in New Jersey, Wang and her team have created a connection between nature, community, and craftsmanship that’s truly unmatched.

The Collection: Drawing inspiration from her Westernised roots and Chinese heritage, the Fall/Winter 2025 collection had no shortage of keyhole necklines, which were slightly reminiscent of the Qipao (a traditional Cheongsam dress) or 3D-printed red Canna lilies, which symbolise confidence and liveliness in China. Memorable pieces included a petal-detailed sheer mesh top styled with a knit and a drawstring maxi skirt in a gradient blue to yellow design made entirely of natural dyes. A modular tee and flared ombre pants with button details were also standouts.

Why We Loved Them: In the age of greenwashing, finding brands that have fully committed to more sustainable practices is nearly impossible, but the transparency at Grace Gui was admirable. Along with each stylised look was a breakdown of materials used, along with where they’re from – most of which were sourced in New York – and a cutesy, compact handbag filled with all the waste from the collection.

GABE GORDON 

The Visionary: Those that frequently peruse the pages of SSENSE have probably come across this brand. Founded in 2019 by Gabe Gordon, who works alongside his partner and costume designer Timothy Gibbons, the brand is revered among the downtown crowd for its cardigans. And Dua Lipa is also a fan. 

The Collection: A model sporting a beehive hairdo and a striped, knitted singlet with a shrug slung over her shoulders opened the show – a strong start to the design duo’s obscure ’80s High School love story theme. Next came knitted mini swing dresses with open fronts (the perfect layering piece) and a show-stopping woven asymmetric top (and dress), as most influencers, editors and stylists on the front row reached for their phones to capture the moment.

Why We Loved Them: This was the brand’s second New York Fashion Week show, which is always such a pivotal moment in a designer’s career. A make-or-break moment that the design duo at Gabe Gordon passed with flying colours thanks to their well-executed fully flushed storyline filled with padded bras and bloomers.

CHRISTOPHER JOHN ROGERS 

The Visionary: When it comes to burgeoning brands slated for cult status, Christopher John Rogers is close to the top of that list. The Baton Rouge-born turned Brooklyn-based designer debuted his first collection in 2018 at 24, and went on to receive top marks from Anna Wintour when he won the CFDA/Vogue Fashion Fund’s top prize just a year later. Since then, the designer has had a multitude of ventures under his belt, including a sold-out Target collab, a guest spot on the new Gossip Girl series, and a hefty client rolodex with names like Tracee Ellis Ross in the mix.

The Collection: After taking a two-year hiatus from the traditional fashion week calendar, Christopher made his return to the runway with 38 looks – his most curated edit yet. The lineup itself was chock-full of unsuspecting colour combinations, such as a bold chartreuse shade made wearable by the hue of the season, bordeaux, with hints of teal and turquoise, sprinkled throughout. Standout pieces included a sleek shantung midi dress, plus oversized coats and dresses in his signature striped motif.

Why We Loved Them: Not only was Christopher’s colourful collection a bright spot in fashion’s proverbial sea of beige minimalism, it simply confirmed what we already knew about the designer’s ability to create clothes women actually want to wear. He’s a natural.

JANE WADE 

The Visionary: Having worked with the likes of bridalwear savant Danielle Frankel, prior to launching her namesake label in 2021, Wade is undoubtedly the vanguard of the New York fashion scene. And the proof is in her CFDA Fashion Fund nomination, function-forward approach to luxury and use of high-quality materials. Oh, and that actual ice bag that went viral after Camila Cabello wore it on the 2024 Met Gala red carpet.

The Collection: On brand with the overarching theme of combining office attire and pragmatic, workwear capabilities, the Fall/Winter 2025 collection was so aptly named: The Merger. In true Jane Wade fashion, there were an abundance of conventionally corporate silhouettes cut with rather unconventional details, such as a fitted pencil dress trimmed with mirrored hardware and fully functional buttons along a multitude of dresses and cargo pants. The result? Adaptive, hard-working pieces whether you’re heading to the office or not.

Why We Loved Them: Apart from Jane’s futuristic take on traditional workwear and partnership with Docusign, former model, actor and star of The Real Housewives Of Beverly Hills Lisa Rinna closed the show wearing a bold-shoulder, floor length trench coat ensemble (complete with a pinstripe shirt and matching tie), which was both unexpected and iconic.

CAMPILLO 

The Visionary: Campillo, the brand, was founded by Mexican-born designer Patricio Campillo in 2017 as an exploration of Charro or “Ranchero” culture through a modern and minimalist lens. Encapsulating the Mexican spirit, the creative is best known for his interpretation of the Western aesthetic, as well as his use of leather and denim. Last year, he was selected as a semi-finalist for the LVMH prize, placing him firmly on the fashion radar.

The Collection: Campillo honed in on the concept of magical realism, a literary genre popular among Mexican authors that marries reality with fantastical elements. This presented itself in the form of more traditional, Charro-inspired silhouettes with less likely details – think well-tailored leather trousers updated with low-pile shearling and a sharp trench coat trimmed with a corseted interior.

Why We Loved Them: To close the show, the brand sent a stunning suit jacket covered in 2,500 rooster feathers (yes, you read that right) down the runway, perfectly catching the city’s sunset in the background. A total Fashion Week highlight.

TANNER FLETCHER

The Visionary: Co-founders Tanner Richie and Fletcher Kasell launched their first collection in 2022, and their clothes have since been seen on cultural luminaries like Bad Bunny, Troye Sivan and Julia Fox, to name a few. The pair skyrocketed to success in the years that followed thanks to their fluid design approach and a distinct vintage aesthetic that’s only comparable to the things you’d find sifting through the carefully curated racks of your favourite vintage boutique.

The Collection: This season, Tanner Fletcher was inspired by unadulterated joy. Falling in line with the collection’s “Dance Party” theme, there was an overwhelming amount of whimsy in the lineup that the designers said was born out of a need for fun and escapism during challenging times – hence the sequined suiting, dainty dresses, decorated with rosette details, and knitted vests sporting cartoon dog motifs. The playfulness of the collection extended beyond the more polished pieces to blue jeans with lace-trimmed hammer loops.

Why We Loved Them: Every season, Tanner manages to have the most diverse casting of the season, spanning across ages, sizes and genders – and this was no different. As one of the older models with ice-grey hair was overheard saying, as she twirled in the collection’s standout strapless evening dress, every girl needs a ball gown at some point in her life.

TIA ADEOLA 

The Visionary: Nigerian designer Teni “Tia” Adeola started her namesake label in her dorm room in 2017 and the brand has, slowly but steadily, been climbing the ranks in the industry ever since. Using her art history background and love for the Renaissance period as inspiration, Tia aims to rewrite history through fashion, particularly for people of colour.

The Collection: A prime example of contemporary craftsmanship, infused with cultural elements of the designer’s Nigerian heritage, Tia’s lineup featured carefully threaded cowshed and coral beading (representing royalty and ancestral connection) strung to create the ultimate out-out top and miniskirt to match, as well as several interpretations of the country’s green and white flag. Our personal favourite? The barely-there dresses decorated in feathers.

Why We Loved Them: Celebrating 10 years of storytelling, the brand not only paid homage to its culture but to its younger self by taking hallmark details from the past, such as tiered ruffles, along with the ever so popular image of Black Jesus, and elevating it for such a special occasion. Having the ability to reference yourself as such a small brand is a flex if ever we’ve seen one.