London Fashion Week returns in full force from the 12-17 September, bringing together a mix of established names and rising stars. Hundreds of designers – both on- and off-schedule – are eager to showcase their vision, using catwalks, presentations and digital events to make their creative voices heard.
At a politically, culturally, and socially turbulent time in the UK, this season’s collections are bound to have a lot to say, so below is a list of the designers whose work speaks to the moment we’re living in:
1. Phoebe English
Since 2011, Phoebe English has been opting for quality over mass-made, fast fashion. Her name has become associated with leading the change in sustainable and circular fashion and she was made an Environment Honouree at The British Fashion Awards in 2021. All of her pieces – known for their incredible attention to detail – are produced from start to finish in London.
2. Standing Ground
After emerging from Fashion East’s talent incubator, Standing Ground is now making waves at London Fashion Week with its independent runway, redefining our approach to evening wear. Founded by Irish designer Michael Stewart, the brand reflects his background in painting, with its sensual lines and masterful draping.
3. Jawara Alleyne
Jawara Alleyne is a London-based designer and artist with roots in Jamaica and the Cayman Islands. Another graduate of the Fashion East programme, Alleyne has quickly risen to prominence, earning a reputation as one of the music industry’s most beloved designers, worn by global stars such as Rihanna, Tems, and Jorja Smith. Drawing deep inspiration from his West Indian heritage, Alleyne’s collections often reflect his personal journey, with designs that evoke childhood memories from his time spent between Jamaica and the Cayman Islands.
4. The Winter House
A contemporary jewellery brand founded in 2022 by creative director Liam Winter, The Winter House made its debut on the LFW schedule last season as part of the British Fashion Council’s NEWGEN initiative. With a background in film, Winter infuses his brand with a powerful narrative, crafting avant-garde and emotionally charged collections. His work is both sculptural and conceptual, characterised by bold, angular lines that push the boundaries of traditional jewellery design.
5. Abigail Ajobi
Abigail Ajobi’s streetwear label seamlessly blends cultural heritage with contemporary urban design. Renowned for her frayed edges, bold prints and vibrant colours, Ajobi fearlessly merges a diverse range of aesthetics while keeping her community at the heart of her work.
6. Talia Byre
Talia Byre is a brand steeped in family heritage, with roots in Liverpool and a name that honours her great uncle’s boutique, Lucinda Byre, which was a community hub from 1964 to 1982. Drawing from this rich legacy, Talia Byre’s collections blend historical influence with modern design, reflecting both a deep connection to the past and a commitment to contemporary style.
7. Harris Reed
Since graduating from London’s Central Saint Martins in 2020, Harris Reed has been on a remarkable upward journey, consistently placing the beauty of fluidity at the core of their work. Reed’s designs have been worn by celebrities like Demi Moore, Adele, and Iman, creating garments that not only capture attention but also spark conversations around self-expression.
8. Di Petsa
Founded in 2019 by London-based Greek designer Dimitra Petsa, this multifaceted brand explores the “ecofeminist relationship between women and water”. Petsa is known for her performance art and work in film, particularly when showcasing her signature Wetlook Dress – a symbol of self-acceptance and “honouring the fluid state,” an ethos that permeates the brand.
9. Paolo Carzana
Welsh designer Paolo Carzana works with plant-based, recycled, and repurposed materials, using natural dyes, and crafting everything by hand. He truly made an impact with his AW23 collection, Queer Symphony, which US Vogue’s Sarah Mower praised as “the opening of another chapter in the fairy story of London fashion”. He has also been hailed by British Vogue as a pioneer of sustainability.
10. Charlie Constantinou
After making his LFW debut last season, Constantinou is gaining recognition for his thoughtful, meticulously researched designs, which prioritise practicality and function alongside innovative creativity. A 2022 graduate of Central Saint Martins’ MA programme, he has been steadily rising with his menswear and womenswear collections. Recently, Constantinou received support from Ecco Leather in collaboration with London-based fashion education platform 1Granary, alongside other emerging designers including Johanna Parv and Knwls.
