Sequins, Feathers and Friendly Rivalry: Discover The Wearable Art of New Orleans’ Indian Super Sunday

Big Chief Peppy has spent four hours each day for the past year making his suit for Indian Super Sunday – a wearable sculpture of sequins, rhinestones and feathers. It takes him 20 minutes to put on, and the craftsmanship rivals that of Parisian couture. For the Mardi Gras Indian community, it’s more than fashion; it’s about culture, identity and community. Each suit can weigh up to 100 pounds and costs a minimum of $3,000 to make. “You’ve gotta be in physical good shape to wear one,” says Big Chief Peppy. “We walk for miles in these suits, dancing and singing. Indian Super Sunday is one of the most important free shows that you’ll ever see in your life.”

You’ve probably heard of Mardi Gras, the world-famous annual carnival that takes place in New Orleans to mark the last day of indulgence before Lent. But less known is Indian Super Sunday, a dazzling daytime parade set up by the African Americans of New Orleans, who mask themselves as American Indians as spectators line the streets to witness the intricate costumes, powerful drumming and vibrant performances that celebrate the city’s rich cultural heritage. This year, the event falls on Sunday 16 March and while the origins of this ritual are mysterious, the Mardi Gras Indians (or Black Masking Indians, as they are also known) have been drumming, chanting ancestral songs and blasting trumpets through the city’s Black neighbourhoods since the 1800s.

The reasons are also multifaceted, but historically, Native Americans helped hide runaway slaves and intermarried with African Americans. Indian Super Sunday emerged as an act of resistance and defiance during a time when the Black community was banned from participating in the main Mardi Gras celebrations. It’s an homage to a group of people who offered them protection and inclusion.

This sense of defiance and community reverberates through the event’s atmosphere, which is electric – an immersive blend of theatre, pageantry and carnival. Influences draw from the Caribbean, Africa, and, of course, New Orleans itself. “This is an African American artform that can’t be duplicated by a machine or robbed,” says Michael Farley, assistant director of the Mardi Gras Indians Council. “Look at music, for example. Anyone can take that – someone from London can sing a blues song. Indian Super Sunday is one of the last cultural African American traditions that exists. What these Indians do couldn’t exist anywhere else in the world.”

The suits (never called costumes) make even Rihanna’s Met Gala look appear tame. Each one is designed by the tribe’s big chief and painstakingly crafted over 12 months. Each suit features an apron, embroidered to represent a significant event from the tribe’s year – whether a birth, death, or triumph, there is no set design brief. From the first glance, it’s clear that these suits are true works of art. Think 3D wearable architecture featuring waves of colours; plumes of feathers flown in from as far as South Africa’ countless rows of rhinestones and beading; as well as intricate embroidery that takes months to create. They are unveiled on Mardi Gras Day – which, this year fell on 4 March – alongside hundreds of thousands of revellers and floats, where tribes meet and taunt each other about whose suit is the most elaborate. As the legendary chief Tootie Montana said, “Kill ’em dead with your needle and thread.”

Big Chief Peppy always carries a needle and thread for any wardrobe malfunctions. “All of us want to be the prettiest chief,” he says. “You have to know what you’re wearing and what it means.” Then once the show’s over, each chief starts again and begins work on next year’s design to make sure no one copies his current suit. Yes, spectators line the streets but only Indians can partake in the procession – unlike Mardi Gras, which features multiple floats and participants.

Despite the music and stunning costumes, Indian Super Sunday remains relatively unknown compared with Mardi Gras, which draws around 1.5 million visitors annually. While both events celebrate music, vibrant attire and cultural pride, Mardi Gras has evolved into a global phenomenon, while Indian Super Sunday stays a beloved yet more understated tradition. It’s slowly gaining recognition, but the community is careful not to commercialise it, preserving the authentic spirit that makes it special.

It’s why, in terms of participation, Indian Super Sunday is a celebration for the Indians only: tribes follow a set route, singing and dancing in their finest before finishing at a public park for more performances. And this year, for the first time, Super Sunday takes place across three days and, as well as the afternoon procession on Sunday, there’ll be evening events, such as live performances from the chiefs at some of the city’s most famed music venues – including Tipitina’s. “They are two completely different things,” says Michael, speaking of Mardi Gras and Super Sunday. “This festival belongs to the community; it isn’t commercialised. We don’t have any big sponsors, so the growth has been organic. It’s growing slowly, as opposed to someone huge swooping it in and commercialising it. Once in your lifetime, you’ve got to see these Indians in their suits and their art up close. Find out about their story, because they have one. Spread that story and tradition around the world. It’s worth hearing about.”

Indeed, New Orleans is more than a wild night out on Bourbon Street. It’s home to one of the richest, cultural powerhouses in the world, and Indian Super Sunday is a part of what makes this city so unique. This culture will grab and dazzle you – and you’ll never underestimate the power of a needle and thread ever again.

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HEAD TO... Music Box Village – Tucked away in the hipster Bywater area, even Uber drivers have trouble finding Music Box Village. This unique collection of treehouses, each of which make sound, are designed to be played by being tugged, opened or banged. The result is oddly soothing. By day, guests are encouraged to create their own music while wandering through the trees; by night, it transforms into a lively music venue and bar.

BOOK A TABLE AT... Higgins Seafood – A small, family-run shack just 30 minutes outside the city, Higgins Seafood serves some of the best oysters, crabs, and crawfish you’ll ever taste. Afterwards, head to Barataria Reserve for a peaceful stroll through the bayou and a chance to spot an alligator. For soul-stirring gumbo, it’s hard to beat Dooky Chase – a legendary dining destination that’s truly worth the hype.

ORDER A DRINK AT... Snake and Jake’s Christmas Club Lounge – Forget Bourbon Street, for a real New Orleans night out, Snake and Jakes – an unassuming dive bar in the Garden District/Uptown – is where it’s at. With Christmas decorations up year-round, it’s the perfect spot to arrive late and soak up the ultimate good-time vibe.

CHECK INTO... Henrietta Hotel – A newcomer to New Orleans, and part of the Mr and Mrs Smith family, this is a boutique hotel with heart. From the outside it looks like a modernist dream, but insides it mixes old and new to create rooms that feel stylish but welcoming. Located on St Charles Avenue, you’re well positioned to explore the city, too.  

DON’T MISS... Studio Be – Since its inception in 2016, Studio Be gallery has become a cultural institution. It might not be as much of an IYKYK destination as it once was, but that doesn’t make it any less worth visiting – artist Brandan BMike Odums’ sprawling warehouse gallery continues to host thoughtful exhibitions and community events that inspire and empower.

CATCH LIVE MUSIC AT... Maple Leaf Bar – No visit to New Orleans is complete without an evening of live music. While Preservation Hall is a must, if you want to avoid tourists, make a beeline for Maple Leaf Bar in Uptown, which often serves up jazz and blues until sunrise. A no-frills space with a tin roof, it’s a venue that draws locals back week after week.