I’ll always find an excuse to go to Edinburgh. It helps that I had a few friends go there for university, providing the perfect opportunity to visit Scotland’s capital throughout my early twenties – spending long afternoons in cosy, characterful pubs and day-to-night dancing at FLY Festival until our feet gave up. Every trip was a mix of joy, chaos, and (often unintentional!) discovery. We made time for the cultural musts, too: wandering through galleries, taking in the historic buildings and getting lost in the beautifully cluttered bookshops tucked into the city’s winding, cobbled lanes.
Though Edinburgh’s charm doesn’t just lie in its dramatic architecture or postcard-perfect views (though they are like nothing else), it’s in the people as well. Fun, creative and unmistakably friendly, they give the city its soul. I’ve had some of my most hilarious nights there, and every visit reminds me how much this place has to offer.
And then there’s Edinburgh in August: the month when the city truly comes alive. During the Edinburgh Festival Fringe, every pub, cafe, and corner is filled with energy. Walk into almost any venue and you’re likely to stumble upon the next big name in comedy, theatre, music or just something wildly unexpected. It’s a one-of-a-kind experience that everyone should have at least once in their life.
To celebrate the Fringe – and this wonderfully creative, eccentric city – I’ve pulled together a few of my favourite ways to spend three days in Edinburgh...
Day 1
Check Into... The Hoxton, it’s the newest addition to the Hoxton hotel group, and doesn’t disappoint. Expect all the usual chic Hoxton design touches (including the comfiest beds and great coffee), set in 11 beautifully unified Georgian-style townhouses, just minutes from Haymarket station and a short stroll from Princes Street (one of the best) and the Old Town. The ideal base from which to explore the city.
Settle In At... Lovecrumbs in West Port. It’s a really sweet cafe which serves the most delicious sweet treats and cakes. The perfect way to reward yourself after your journey there!
See The Sights At... Edinburgh Castle, just a 10-minute walk away. It’s a must, whether it’s your first time in Edinburgh or your 100th – you get the most gorgeous view over the city. Explore the surrounding Princes Street Gardens, walk up the ruins and read up on your Scottish history, before diving into all the new gems this wonderful city has to offer.
For A Relaxed Lunch... Walk south through the city to Bruntsfield and try to nab a table at Leftfield – a quaint neighbourhood bistro overlooking Bruntsfield Links, with a delicious seafood-focused menu with Mediterranean influences, and a great low-intervention wine list.
Get Your Art Fix At... Talbot Rice Gallery. It’s the public gallery of the University of Edinburgh and part of the Edinburgh College of Art. The building has two main spaces: a contemporary white cube gallery, plus a neoclassical area that was formerly a 19th-century natural history museum. Another bonus: admission is free!
For Dinner... jump on the tram to Haymarket and head to The Palmerston. This August, the team are running ‘The Palmerston & Pals’, where they invite chef friends to take over the kitchen every Sunday – so there’s always something fresh on the menu. It’s also right next to The Hoxton, so it’s an easy walk back home.
Day 2
Start The Day With... breakfast at Leo’s Beanery on Howe Street. It’s an adorable, family-run cafe with great breakfast options and a chilled, easy-going Edinburgh vibe. Or, if you’re a lover of fresh pastries, walk to Lannan Bakery, which is owned by Scottish baker Darcie Maher – the almond croissants are a treat, and they’re opening a deli later this month!
Soak Up Some Culture... in the Old Town, just a short stroll away. There, you’ll find the National Museum of Scotland, which is well worth a visit for the architecture alone. Inside, there’s multiple gallery and exhibition spaces, so definitely check the website in advance to see what’s on during your visit.
Hit The Shops... along the Royal Mile, a well-known street in the Old Town with lots of shops, traditional pubs and cafes for a coffee-and-cake-stop (or two). Once you’ve reached the end, keep walking north through the city’s winding streets towards Stockbridge.
Have A Late Lunch At... Sotto, an Italian restaurant in Stockbridge offering an extensive wine list of more than 200 Italian wines to choose from! (Fortunately, the menu is packed with fresh pasta dishes to line your stomach.)
Grab A Post-Lunch Drink At... The Vinnie – to locals, more formally known as St. Vincent Bar if you go by the sign outside – just a seven-minute walk from Sotto. It’s a gorgeous old-school Edinburgh boozer under a classic townhouse, perfect for keeping the drinks flowing like a true Scotsman.
Come Evening, Line Your Stomach At... Chez Jules. A casual and timeless French bistro, which is always lively and full of atmosphere. After an afternoon of drinking, Chez Jules is a great pitstop, whilst also keeping the party going. Four minutes away is also Fingers Piano Bar, a night-time institution that has been providing the party with great live music since the 1980s!
Then, Head Down The Road To... Kitty O’Shea’s. A great Irish pub that’s always full of laughter, great vibes, live music and is open till 3am on weekends – what more could you ask for?
Day 3
Shake Off The Cobwebs... by jumping on a tram near the hotel and heading up to Leith. It’s right on the harbour, so you’ll find a lovely change of scenery, a fresh breeze and a really excellent breakfast. (Though if you’re really struggling after dancing the night away at Kitty’s, The Hoxton does great room service that you can enjoy from the comfort of your bed!)
Have Breakfast At... Ardfern, the latest spot from Scottish chef Roberta Hall-McCarron (also behind restaurants Eleanore and The Little Chartroom, if you need even more foodie reccs while you’re in the city). It’s a cafe, bottle shop and restaurant that’s been awarded a Michelin Bib Gourmand – so the full breakfast (with obligatory tattie scone) might just be the best you’ve ever had.
Take A Moment For Yourself... at the Waterstones cafe, facing Edinburgh Castle (just 15 minutes on the tram back from Leith). Admittedly, the coffee isn’t the best (so if you’re in need of a major caffeine hit, grab one from Cowan & Sons or Black Medicine Coffee on the way), but what it lacks in flavour, it more than makes up for in views. It’s a lovely spot to sit and read a book.
Have A Hearty Lunch... at The Toll House overlooking the Water of Leith in Canonmills. This restaurant puts sustainability at its core, sourcing high-quality produce from local butchers, fishmongers and grocers. They also do an excellent Sunday roast.
Get One Last Look At The City... (and walk off lunch!) by walking up to Arthur’s Seat – an ancient volcano in Holyrood Park, right near the Royal Mile. When you make it to the top (it’ll take you between 30 minutes and two hours, depending on the route you choose), you feel invincible as you soak in the panoramic views across the city. Definitely pack a couple of tinnies with you (or, you know, a coffee) for when you reach the top!
Have Your Final Meal At... Cardinal, a beautiful, upmarket tasting menu by Tomás Gormley, which celebrates all the best of Scottish produce cooked over hot coals (think Carlingford oysters and smoked Bellhaven lobster, plus a dreamy lamb and seaweed combo for mains). The culinary cherry on top of a perfect Edinburgh weekend.
