The French Riviera has long been cast in the glow of superyachts, red carpets and the flash of cameras. But tucked behind ancient ramparts, Antibes’ Old Town tells a different story: one of cobbled streets, Provençal markets, and a creative spirit that feels a touch more intimate than the glamour of its high-gloss neighbours.
Antibes offers a quieter kind of luxury – the kind you stumble into rather than chase. Tucked between Nice and Cannes, this sun-washed corner of the Riviera has everything you need for a long weekend that’s equal parts laid-back and lightly indulgent. Whether your ideal escape involves long, late lunches and sea-drenched siestas or wine-soaked nights that drift into morning, Antibes moves at your pace. It’s a place where charm takes unexpected forms: Picasso once worked here rent-free, paying his dues in paintings instead of francs, and there’s an annual anchovy festival, which manages to make an entire town party around tiny, salty fish. There’s even a saying, “se voir à Antibes” (to picture yourself in Antibes) – a kind of shorthand for imagining a life just a little more beautiful, more effortless. And really, within the honey-coloured walls of the Old Town, that version of life is closer than you’d think: think no rush, no dress code, no need to impress.
For me, Antibes felt like a long exhale: a nervous-system reset shaped by hours lost in the pages of a book on the beach. Wandering its walkable streets, framed by sunlit facades in shades of blue, yellow, and pink, I couldn’t help but feel like I had stepped into a little pocket of French paradise. In just a few days, I felt completely at home, and even claimed a few ‘local’ spots of my own, revisiting more than once.
With the festivals of June behind it and the high-summer crowds of July and August dispersed, Antibes enters a golden stretch in September and October. The sun still warms the sea, the beaches are blissfully quiet, and the town settles into a more relaxed rhythm – still vibrant, but unmistakably local. It’s the ideal time to explore at your own pace, with T-shirt weather by day and cool, wine-glass evenings by the port. Three days here is just enough to find your favourite café and street, claim a sun-warmed stone on the beach, and feel (even briefly) like you live there. Here’s how I suggest you spend it...
Day 1
Check Into... Royal Antibes, a sleek, modern hotel that feels like a ship gently moored on the Mediterranean shore– its architecture inspired by the curves and sails of a yacht, so you just can imagine how dazzling the views are. With a private beach just steps away and the Old Town effortlessly close, it’s the perfect coastal sanctuary to unwind after days spent wandering sunlit streets and hidden corners.
Start Your Morning... With a perfectly brewed iced coffee, best enjoyed from the street-side tables of Nomad’s Coffee. Finding my trusted caffeine fix was a priority – and Nomad’s quickly became my go-to, especially when paired with one of their irresistible cakes and baked-goods for breakfast. Tucked in the heart of Antibes’ Old Town, I can’t recommend taking a moment to sit here enough and simply get your bearings, and watch the streets come to life.
Wander Towards The... Flea Market on Place Nationale. A self-confessed trinket-lover, I couldn’t resist picking up a few vintage keepsakes on my first day. The market transforms one of the town’s central squares into a treasure trove of curiosities, antiques and nostalgic finds. Make a visit on a Thursday or Saturday (tip: go early for the best finds), and go hunting for old postcards, ceramics, or simply a memento of your trip that feels a little different. Even if you leave empty-handed, this market is still a colourful, immersive way to step into local life.
Have A Bite To Eat At... La Guinguette. Just a few steps away from the flea market, this unpretentious dining spot has a boho-chic courtyard and serves traditional French dishes. The colourful outdoor seating area is a peaceful haven, offering a sheltered sanctuary to re-charge after some flea-market foraging.
Shop Independent In... The Old Town, where you’ll find clothing boutiques, homewares and gift shops. One standout is Antibes Books – a welcoming English-language bookshop where you’ll definitely lose track of time browsing the shelves. Quaint yet thoughtfully stocked, this independent gem is a must-visit if you need to pick up a holiday read (or, like me, three!)
Finish With Dinner At... Le Comptoir de La Tourraque – a five-minute stroll from the Old Town’s shopping streets and less than 10 minutes from the hotel, it’s the perfect place to round off your day. Each dish here is a masterpiece of seasonal produce. No matter what you choose from this menu, it will be presented to you as a work of art. The restaurant itself exudes a comforting rustic vibe with atmospheric wooden beams. Plus, if it’s a warm evening, the small tucked-away outdoor area where you can enjoy your candlelit dinner beside a serene pool of water is perfect for wrapping up a day feeling like you’ve discovered something truly local and lowkey special.
Day 2
Start Your Day Early With... A morning swim at Plage de la Gravette. This is one of the smaller beaches beside Antibes’s Old Town. It’s nestled next to the harbour, where bright blue water glistens against countless white hulls of moored sailboats. In summer, it can understandably get quite busy. However, during the quieter shoulder seasons, a sunny day here feels like pure bliss. When the wind blows from certain directions, the tall ramparts shelter the beach, turning it into a secluded sun-soaked stretch of sand and sea. Get there before the crowds arrive, place your towel right by the shore, and enjoy the crystal-clear water (pretty much) all to yourself.
Indulge Your Senses At... Marché Provençal in the heart of the Old Town. Browse stalls brimming with fresh produce, cheeses, and locally-sourced gifts like dried lavender and olive oil. With ready-to-eat treats available at the stalls such as la socca niçoise – a unique type of ‘pancake’ made from chickpea flour and olive oil – and plenty of nearby cafés offering breakfast and brunch, the market is a great opportunity to fuel up for your second day in Antibes.
Discover The Hidden Corners Of Antibes... Back In The Old Town. If there’s one thing I love to do when travelling to a new place, it’s letting an aimless stroll guide the way. Wander past pastel buildings and quaint courtyards, admire the flower-draped houses, and take turns in search of that ‘candid’ photo backdrop. Make sure you take a look inside Église Notre-Dame-de-la-Platea, a pretty, serene Baroque church, if you fancy a quiet breather.
Go For A Picturesque Walk... Along the seafront. If you’re still in the mood for walking, the path along the sea walls offers a wonderfully relaxing way to soak up the beautiful coastline. The walk can be as long or as short as you like, with plenty of opportunities to pause or dip back into the Old Town depending on your time and energy. Here, you can look out to the mediterranean and admire the boats dotted across the sea. As the sun dips lower, be sure to catch Jaume Plensa’s Le Nomade – an illuminated sculpture that stands tall over the harbour, its glowing presence a glowing landmark and quiet beacon to end the afternoon on.
Book A Table For Dinner At... Le Chaudron. Nestled among the cobbled streets just twelve minutes from the hotel, and set within vaulted stone walls, this unique and intimate bistro pairs friendly service with beautifully cooked dishes. Fill up on tasty French favourites and Provençal specialties like tian – a layered vegetable bake bursting with Mediterranean flavours – and finish with a classic crème brûlée.
Dance The Night Away At... Absinthe Bar, or simply sit back soak up the vibes as live pianists and guitarists keep the music coming from 9pm until the early hours. Whether you’re in the mood for a quick nightcap, or to try their signature absinthe, served traditional style or shaken into inventive cocktails that nod to its mysterious, bohemian roots or ready to dive into a proper Antibes night out, this places pulses with energy and charm and draws a mix of locals and visitors alike.
Day 3
Pick Up Breakfast On-The-Go At... Boulangerie Veziano, a traditional bakery tucked on the fringe of the Old Town. Start your morning surrounded by the irresistible scent of fresh pastries and warm, crusty bread. In Antibes, there’s no better way to kick off the day than with a perfectly flaky croissant or a rich, gooey pain au chocolat.
Get Your Art And History Fix At... The Picasso Museum, situated in the Château Grimaldi, where Picasso himself worked in the 1940s. Here you can explore a unique collection of his paintings, ceramics, and sketches. The museum itself is also a work of art, with its centuries-old architecture providing a fascinating backdrop for Picasso’s masterpieces. And when the sun is shining, don’t miss the museum’s elevated terraced garden – a peaceful spot dotted with sculptures, perfect for lingering a little longer while taking in unrivalled views of the Mediterranean.
For A Relaxed Lunch, Visit... Les Filles Du Micocoulier, a gorgeous little French restaurant just a few moments from the museum and beside the Marché Provençal. Here you’ll find crêpes that are pure Provençal delight. The menu is excitingly extensive though, offering plenty of sweet and savoury choices. The location also places you right back in the heart of the Old Town ready for some more afternoon exploration.
Collect Some Art Of Your Own With... A hop around the Old Town’s contemporary galleries, where rotating exhibitions showcase the work of local artists. Walk along Boulevard d’Aguillon, where you will find workshops offering handblown glassware and handmade ceramics, including the beautifully crafted pieces at Terres De Couleurs.
Treat Yourself To Dinner At... Le Michelangelo (Mamo), a local favourite just around the corner from the artisan shops. It’s a luxury restaurant that’s quietly earned a celeb following — think Naomi Campbell and other stars who come here for the vibe and the food. This stylish yet welcoming spot brings a true taste of Italy to Antibes. With rich, handmade pastas and wood-fired dishes that hit all the right notes, it’s the perfect place to savour your last night.
Enjoy Your Last Drink Of The Trip At... Jeanne (less than five minutes from Le Michelangelo (Mamo) in the direction back to the hotel). Owned by two sisters and named in honour of their late mother, this stylish little wine bar feels like stepping into a welcoming family home. With just a handful of tables, it’s the perfect cosy spot to raise a glass and toast the end of your trip.
But, If You Do Have Some Extra Time... Consider a day trip to Nice or Cannes. The train journey along the Mediterranean coast offers some of the most scenic views in Europe. From Antibes, it’s a quick and affordable ride with tickets starting from €6. Along the way, you’ll pass sparkling blue waters, gorgeous coastal towns and picturesque beaches. It’s a relaxed way to explore more of the French Riviera, without straying far from your base in Antibes.
