Have you ever read a book and immediately wanted to talk with the author? That’s exactly what happened while I was midway through novelist Tony Cohan’s On Mexican Time, a cinematic story about his first visit and subsequent move to San Miguel de Allende in the mid-1980s.
I happened to be in the central Mexican city when I found Cohan’s hardback on a shelf in the home I’d rented. I’d returned to Mexico chasing its singular energy: vibrant art, unforgettable food and the promise of something new. Reading about the history that lined the surrounding streets, I became so absorbed in Cohan’s words, his vivid descriptions, that I instantly felt the need to find that local-approved version of San Miguel de Allende for myself.
Cradled by wilderness in Mexico’s central highlands, San Miguel de Allende – around a three-and-a-half hour bus journey from Mexico City – was once a quiet stop on the curious traveller’s trail, where Beat poet Neal Cassady lived and died and photographer Deborah Turbeville’s images came to life. Though it was my first visit, Cohan’s words sparked a longing for the “earthly paradise” he knew, before tourism arrived in force. That San Miguel de Allende has faded, replaced by flawless boutique hotels and, regrettably, a creeping presence of global chains. It’s a far cry from one (now-incomprehensible) chapter of Cohan’s book, in which he and his friends allude to this upcoming gentrification, before dismissing it on account of the town having “no nightlife, no airport” and “one good cafe”.
Yet its allure stands the test of time with undeniable beauty, winding cobblestone streets and photogenic scenes on every corner. Still, you can absolutely find pockets of its authentic, rugged, bohemian charm in the overflowing crimson and orange bougainvillaea, the sun-dappled plazas and chatty food and flower vendors – you just have to know where to go. Here’s how to spend 72 hours in this enchanting city....
Day 1
Make A Base In... One of the beautiful homes around town. Built in the 18th century, Casa No Name in the centre of town, as the photographer Deborah Turbeville’s San Miguel de Allende abode – and it’s now gaining a new lease of life as a six-bedroom boutique hotel. The UNESCO World Heritage site offers an intimate glimpse into the world of yesteryear and captivates with idyllic patios and terraces overflowing with tropical vines and orange trees. Many of the bedrooms celebrate the home’s original features with wooden beams, open fireplaces and antique flourishes. Elsewhere, La Valise San Miguel has a great pool and six individually designed, comfortable suites. Both offer room rates with or without breakfast, depending on how you like to start the day. But if you’re in search of a caffeine fix...
Enjoy Award-Winning Coffee At... Hole-in-the-wall style cafe El Cafe de la Mancha, just a seven-minute walk away. With a dizzying array of brewing styles, from Paragon and V60 to Origami and AeroPress, there really is a drink for every coffee lover – plus a very passionate and knowledgeable owner.
Soak In Local Life With... A leisurely stroll along nearby Hidalgo, one of the city’s main thoroughfares. It’s home to all kinds of interesting stores, art galleries (including Arte Oaxaca SMA) and grand, beautifully restored buildings – you can happily while away a few hours here.
Pause For Lunch At... San Miguel de Allende institution Raíces Restaurante SMA. With a handful of tables, Raíces caters to locals, visitors and expats with its eclectic range of regional Mexican dishes, made with love. I ordered the egg, avocado and chicharrón sandwich, which arrived speared with a couple of glossy, sweet red chillies. There’s also a tasty yellow mole omelette, ceviche tacos and a playful dish known as chilaquiles embarazados, which roughly translates to ‘pregnant tortillas’ (homemade tortilla chips topped and stuffed with avocado, salsa, cheese and eggs), on the menu.
Get The Photograph Of... The joy-evoking Parroquia de San Miguel Arcángel and surrounding El Jardin. This towering, neo-Gothic dusky pink church seems to almost puncture the sky with its spiky spires dominating the town’s main plaza, El Jardín. Families and friends gather each evening to enjoy street food and ice cream while listening to live music – it’s well worth joining them. After dark, the Parroquia lights up, too, exuding a magical air that begs to be captured on film.
Eat The Best Vegan Tacos Of Your Life At... Don Taco Tequila. I'm not vegan, but the tacos here are some of the best I’ve ever eaten – I returned many times. Served alongside four incredible homemade hot sauces, my favourites were: Bigotes, a corn tortilla topped with seitan chorizo, chipotle mayo and avocado, and Norteño, which had wine-flamed mushrooms, caramelised onions and a cashew cheese crust atop a flour tortilla. There are 10 variations of tacos to choose from, as well as unmissable cocktails. Arrive early, as the tiny place does fill up fast.
Day 2
Start The Day With Baked Goods At... La Cabra Iluminada, where you’ll find vegan brownies, babka, cardamom rolls and mezquite cookies, which you can enjoy in the secret garden hidden at the rear. The coffee is also good, and they offer decent breakfast dishes if you’re after something a little heartier.
Dive Into Nature At... El Charco del Ingenio, San Miguel de Allende’s sprawling botanical garden. I spent an entire morning winding through nopal cactus-flanked pathways and past silvery-blue agave plants to the soundtrack of hundreds upon hundreds of chirping crickets. The scrubland park is so huge, there’s even a deep ravine (charco) running through its centre, which is where I also stumbled across the curious-sounding Pool of El Chan – the source of a centuries-old folk legend. It’s believed that a guardian spirit named El Chan dwells in the pool’s waters, and it’s only when visitors get too close that the spirit’s terrible powers will be unleashed, so it’s safe to say I didn’t linger for too long. There’s an informative museum onsite detailing the flora and fauna that can be found, as well as a small cafe close to the park’s entrance.
Don’t Miss A Trip To... Mercado Ignacio Ramírez – often referred to as the city’s artisan market – where local life can be witnessed in all its colourful and delicious glory. Make sure to stop at the juice stands, which serve an array of bright, freshly squeezed drinks made from locally grown produce – try papaya or cherimoya. And don’t leave without trying the elote – grilled corn on the cob topped with lime, chilli and salt. Look out for some of the striking local varieties such as blue maize and cacahuazintle.
Stand In Awe Under... The colossal unfinished work of one of Mexico’s most famous muralists, David Alfaro Siqueiros. Covering the walls and ceiling within the Centro Cultural el Nigromante, the piece is painted in Siqueiros’ trademark social realist style in recognition of the enduring legacy of Ignacio Allende, a prominent leader in Mexico’s struggle for independence. While the mural was never completed, it impresses with its scale, bold shades and symmetry – a must for art lovers.
Grab A Sunset Drink... On the balcony at Inside Cafe. With a mezcal margarita in hand, you’ll almost feel like you’re in a film, enjoying San Miguel de Allende’s amber-lit evenings while gazing over the street below, full of food vendors selling freshly made tacos, hawkers loaded with heaving bags winding their way home and children playing with cartoon-emblazoned balloons.
For Seafood Tostadas, Head To... El Manantial, a short stroll out of town (15 minutes from Inside Cafe). This mustard and ochre-painted corner restaurant draws all sorts of intriguing characters on account of the exceptionally great food and heady mezcal margaritas. Since I was travelling solo, I sat at the countertop, where I could watch the comings and goings of the restaurant with plate after plate of ceviche tostadas and tacos al pastor for company.
Day 3
Start Early, Seeking Out Street Art... All over town. Brimming with more than 100 murals, drawings and paintings, San Miguel de Allende is a street art lover’s dream destination – and the morning, before the city wakes up, is the best time to enjoy it. Canción India street is the ideal place to start a self-guided walking tour of the town’s street art. Here, walls provide the canvas for around 20 incredibly detailed and thought-provoking pieces by many of Mexico’s leading and most loved street artists. Standout pieces include vast mural Un Regalo a Mictlan by Calladitos, Papá by Alejandro Cortés, the robed figure by Secreto Rebollo, Mariana Juarez’s vivid creations that celebrate Mexico’s flora and Cine de Oro María Félix by Merle.
Take A Page Out Of Cohan’s Book With Freshly Baked Goods From... La Colmena. This longstanding bakery, which opened its doors in 1901, is mentioned in Cohan’s book and is still going strong today. The choice of sweet treats are seriously impressive – I picked up a glazed butter cookie to enjoy in another of the town’s beautifully green spaces, Park Benito Juárez, a sublime place where families laze and picnic on weekends surrounded by bold orange, terracotta and bright yellow abodes.
Embrace Your Inner Child At... Museo La Esquina, where a playful and colourful collection of traditional Mexican toys spreads over multiple floors. From hand-painted papier mache Lucha Libre wrestling figures and Day of the Dead music boxes to hand-stitched fabric dolls dressed in typical Mexican regional dress, the attention to detail in these joy-evoking relics is unrivalled. It’s open every day except Mondays.
Sit Down For One Last Round Of Toastadas At... La Mezcalería. With a perfectly curated menu, this intimate restaurant elevates classic Mexican food, turning each plate into a mini work of art. There’s an intriguing hibiscus flower soup with mole, red snapper ceviche tostada with mango and a baked bone marrow dish with corn kernels. But my favourite – by far – was the rib-eye tostada with chipotle and fried leek. For anyone wanting to learn more about Mexico’s famed mezcal, the restaurant also offers mezcal tastings for 550 Mexican Pesos per person.
You Can't Leave Without Trying A Pulque, So Head To... Pulquería La Otomí for your final stop. I’m so glad I came across this dimly lit joint during my explorations of San Miguel de Allende, because I’d never sampled Pulque (the traditional Mexican alcoholic drink) before. Made from the fermented sap of the maguey plant (agave), it has a slightly tangy taste and is milky white in colour. Pulquería La Otomí specialises in the sour-ish drink, serving it in large terracotta mugs and in various flavours depending on the season, so you can toast to your time in this very one-of-a-kind city.
