A small warning: a trip to Valencia might ruin all other city breaks for you. Nestled comfortably on Spain’s eastern coast between the Balearic sea and Serra Calderona mountains, it’s a vibrant city of contrasts. You’ll find futuristic architecture set against medieval streets, peaceful parks dotted across the city and a strong sense of Spanish tradition (think the flamboyant Las Fallas festival each March), and, as you walk around, there’s an edgy, rough-around-the-edges spirit that inspires you to explore further.
There’s a lot to take in, and if you’re a first-time visitor, it’s best to be guided by a local – someone well-versed in wandering its winding pathways, hidden foodie spots and unmissable cultural gems.
Don’t have friends on the ground? Not to worry; I’m here to help. After spending a recent long weekend there with friends who are locals, it’s plain to see that Valencia is all about the culture: a place to explore 2,000-year-old buildings, contemporary modernism, street art and so much more.
We spent our mornings taking a dip in the Balearic Sea (less than a 20-minute drive from the city centre), afternoons soaking up the buzz of the markets – where you can taste the very best olives that the region has to offer (trust me, I used to be an olive hater) – and as the sun set, we followed the sound of music and laughter drifting through the streets to the next bar. Sound inviting? Here’s my local-approved guide to three days in Valencia, which will make you wish you could stay past the weekend...
Day 1
Check In To... Caro Hotel for a unique stay in the heart of Valencia’s old town (also known as Ciutat Vella). Airbnbs aren’t exactly loved here – locals would much rather you check into a hotel or a locally run apartment stay, where your visit supports the community. As a commercially independent hotel, Caro Hotel is full of character; each of its 26 rooms are unique, blending sleek contemporary design with the original historical, architectural features of the building such as 2nd-century Roman mosaics, Arabic walls and Gothic arches.
Once You Have Settled... It’s time to start exploring the old town. Here, ancient ruins and medieval monuments – such as Torres de Serranos (the Medieval tower and gate to the city), and La Lonja de la Seda (the Silk Exchange, a UNESCO World Heritage site) – meet vibrant street art and buzzing tapas bars. It’s the perfect place to get lost and feel the city’s past and present collide.
Word of warning, they take their siestas very seriously here – and I’m sure I would too if I lived somewhere that consistently hit the 40-degree Celsius mark. Always check the opening times before heading out, always apply a generous slather of SPF, and always stay hydrated. Either with water, or a cheeky glass of Agua de Valencia, but more on that later!
Stop For A Coffee At... Coffee & Bikes, tucked away in the quieter streets, order a cold brew to keep yourself energised and refreshed while you wander from plaza to plaza.
Lunch Like A Local At... Market Central, just round the corner from Coffee & Bikes. Open 6 days a week, this is one of the largest markets with fresh produce in all of Europe and you’ll find tourists and local abuelas (grandmas) alike doing their shopping here. Most neighbourhoods have a market of their own, and not only are they architecturally beautiful, but you can also take your pick of the best fish, meats, cheeses, local olives, wines, and honey that Valencia and its surrounding areas have to offer.
Get Your Culture Fix At... CCCC (that’s Centre del Carme Cultura Contemporània), a 12th-century monastery turned art school turned centre for contemporary culture. Entry is free, and as an institution the CCCC gives a lot of opportunities to bright, emerging talent – the perfect immersion into the city’s past, present and future. While I was visiting, I went to an exhibition showcasing some amazing street artists and their work, some of who you can still spot on the graffitied streets outside.
For Tapas, Head To... Taberna la Sénia wine bar, a Michelin-recommended spot nestled in the quiet streets of the historic city. Combining Tuscan and Valencian traditions, the menu has a selection of fresh, local and seasonal products. They also produce their very own olive oil made from local olives if you want to take some back home with you.
Refresh Like A Local With... A glass (or two) of Agua de Valencia, if you’re in the mood to sip something a little different. It’s a special concoction of Spanish sparkling wine, freshly squeezed orange juice, vodka and gin. Although ‘agua’ might translate to water (and it is the perfect drink to cool down after a hot day), proceed with caution – this drink will hit you quickly! I shared a pitcher of this sweet, boozy nectar with my local friends at a charming little bar called Sant Jaume in the El Carmen neighbourhood and giggled for the rest of the afternoon.
Day 2
Start Slow, With... A peaceful stroll through the Turia Gardens – a former riverbed turned green space after a devastating flood in the 1950s. (It’s also a great spot for a bike ride – Valenbisi is the rental bike service everyone uses across the city.) Wind through the heart of the city surrounded by trees and admire its character as you go from the medieval walls of the old town to the futuristic city of Arts and Sciences (CAC), right up to the beach front.
Grab A Coffee... From TALLAT Coffee Roasters, a specialty coffee spot that values every step of the brewing process. Then get to exploring the El Cabanyal neighbourhood. Once an old fishing town, El Cabnyal is known for its exciting, creative, rough-around-the-edges spirit. Among the colourful, tiled buildings, there’s a new wave of restaurants and nightlife spots that have started to pop up – my friends said it reminded them of Kreuzberg in Berlin (IYKYK).
Have A Quick Bite At... Festinar. They serve up small pizzas and you get what they give you! Well... you have a choice between ‘omnivore’, ‘vegetarian’ and ‘vegan’, but you get what they have in the kitchen that day. Each pizza is less than 3EUR and I’d definitely recommend ordering a few, because food tastes better when it’s shared.
Time To Unwind... At the beach! A day at the beach is an absolute must when visiting a city like Valencia (if the weather permits). Hop on a tram that will take you right to the beach front and tan, baby, tan! (With plenty of SPF, of course.) As afternoon fades into dusk, friends and families take picnics to a whole other level by setting up tables by the sea, enjoying their homemade food with a drink and some good conversation – now that’s the true Mediterranean spirit.
Sate Your Appetite At... HUNDRED. You’ll be ravenous after all that swimming, so feast your eyes and eat your heart out with a juicy burger and chips. And if the alleged “world’s best burger” doesn’t tempt you, there is a food court through the doors at the back, which serves up a variety of street food, from empanadas to Thai food.
Dance The Night Away... Just down the road at La Fabrica de Hielo – a social/cultural hub in an old factory building that serves up locally brewed beer, paired with exciting musical acts and DJs.
Day 3
Get Inspired At... Museo de Bellas Artes de València, also known as the Museum of Fine Arts of Valencia – an art gallery that houses the works of Spanish Renaissance painters like Velázquez, Joaquín Sorolla and Goya. Or, if you’re in the mood for something a bit more contemporary, IVAM (Institut Valencià d’Art Modern) was recommended to me by my local artists friends as one of their favourite gallery spaces. With an impressive collection featuring 1,000 works across various disciplines – painting, sculpture, drawing, photography, video, you name it – you could easily spend an entire day here.
Lunch On A Valencian Classic At... Casa Carmela. Valencia is the city where paella was born, and although most locals are likely to prefer their grandmother’s cooking, this family-run spot might be the next best thing. They’ve been serving wood-fired paella since 1922, and one of their specialities is Valencian paella with... snails (a must!). Make sure you’re hungry and make sure to book in advance for a table. Remeber, Valencia is a land where lunch lingers into late afternoon so you can either take a break for a couple of Zs or...
Meet New Friends At... Veneno House, an exciting cultural community hub founded by two young women. From live music to story swapping events, this is a space for dreamers. Check their website (which is an experience in itself) and see what they’ve got coming up.
Get Groovy... At listening bar Splendini Bar i Discos. I love a shabby chic bar, and this spot meets the criteria. Splendini is the perfect spot to relax, have a cold beer and some light snacks, while browsing through vinyls.
For Dinner... Head to The Wine Gallery in Rusafa, Valencia’s go-to area for bars, clubs and nightlife, for a great selection of wines and delicious tapas. Share some tortilla de patatas, roquetas de jamón, or a cheese board with a deliciously paired wine. It’s also open till 1.30am on weekends, so you can soak up every last second in this city – because, trust me, you won’t want to leave...
