Paris. As the cliché goes, c’est toujours une bonne idée – and as much as I hate to indulge in clichés, this one never fails to ring true. Paris is a city synonymous with all the joys that come with indulging and excess: mornings that start with flaky, butter-laced patisserie and still-warm baguettes. Long, languid lunches with a pichet or two of vin rouge, which fuel afternoons getting lost in the seemingly endless galleries, museums and cultural institutions this city is so known for.
And then there’s Paris after dark: bar after bar serving up fine vintages and crisp martinis; restaurants offering up plates loaded with gluttonous dishes; and cafes-turned-bars-turned-mini-clubs packed with locals, just calling out for you to jump up on the table and let loose.
See, Paris is always a good idea. But in a city where there’s something beautiful at every turn, you might need a helping hand. And that’s where this Travel List comes in. It’s by no means a fixed, formal guide – in a city bursting with options, the best discoveries usually happen by accident. So instead, consider this a gentle introduction to the City of Love – a series of suggestions of restaurants, bars, cultural institutions and arrondissiments that never fail to bring the joy.
Day 1
Check Into... Le Pigalle – a neighbourhood hotel that feels like you’re a guest in your chicest Parisian friend’s home. It’s right in the heart of the area its named for – sandwiched between the Moulin Rouge five minutes down the road, and the white domes of the Sacre Coeur peering over from the peak of Montmartre just above. The DJs are local, the morning-after pastries are from a local bakery, and the books dotted around the lobby and bedrooms are chosen by a local bookshop.
Sample Your First Baked Goods Of The Trip At... Mamiche, the Rue Condorcet branch is just a few minutes’ walk from the hotel. It’s always my first stop in Paris – either for its signature babka, a classic baguette or, a personal favourite, the beignets. The lightest you’ll find, filled with everything from homemade jam to a Nutella-like filling.
Take An Obligatory Tour Around The Sights At... Place de la Concorde. It’s about a 40-minute stroll through picturesque streets, or just a 10-minute Métro ride (with a short walk at the end). There, you’ll get your first hit of traditional Paris: the Eiffel Tower to your right, the Louvre to your left. If it’s sunny, make a pitstop at Jardin des Tuileries and eat your Mamiche treats on one of the signature green chairs overlooking the fountains. Otherwise...
Stop For Coffee At... Café 1902 at the Petit Palais, which is just on the other side of Place de la Concorde from the Tuileries. It’s free to enter (even if you aren’t looking at the fine art collection), and what you’re looking for here are the outdoor tables, overlooking the most picturesque courtyard.
Dive Into Fashion History At... La Galerie Dior, just a 10-minute walk away. Even if you aren’t into the traditional fashion cycles, anyone who appreciates art should make a stop at 30 Avenue Montaigne. One of Paris’ most famed couture houses has opened its archives to the public, charting the history of the house of Christian Dior in one of the most beautiful exhibitions you’ll ever see. Just be sure to book in advance, tickets sell out fast.
Stroll Along The Seine... Crossing the river at the Pont Alexandre III bridge for another glimpse of the Eiffel Tower down to the 7th arrondissement. This part of the city feels like stepping into the Paris of the past – the architecture is grand (it’s home to the likes of the imposing Musée de l'Armée and Musée Rodin) and it’s also known for some of the most notable eateries from history – namely rival spots Café de Flor and Les Deux Magots, on opposite corners of the same street.
Have A Literary-Approved Pitstop At... Les Deux Magots – the literary greats went there first, after all. So make like Simone de Beauvoir and Ernest Hemingway and take a seat spilling out onto the pavement, and order yourself the first croque monsieur of the trip.
Indulge In A Little More History With... A visit to the almost-restored Notre-Dame, around a 20-minute walk through the beautiful Saint-Germain-des-Prés neighbourhood. Once you’ve marvelled at the architecture, head around the back and cross the Pont Saint-Louis to Île Saint-Louis, where you’ll find teeny tiny coffee spot Minicafé.
Have A Disco Nap... Back at Le Pigalle – the bedrooms come with vinyl players and an excellent record selection, so pop one on and recline (momentarily) on the bed for a little respite before refreshing and head out to...
Enjoy An Apéritif At... Classique, a Very Good cocktail bar just a couple of streets away. You can’t order wrong – just tell the bartenders what you like and they’ll guide your selection.
Turn Dinner Into An Experience At... Vivant 2 – probably, definitely my favourite Paris restaurant. It’s tiny – one long counter behind where chefs cook up fine dining and sommelier-waiters pour wines paired to perfection, while you perch on the other side, sampling everything that comes your way. And it’s far from stuffy: Vivant 2 is a vibe, from the huge flickering candles artfully dripping wax onto the scrubbed silver counter to the soundtrack that will have you dancing in your seat.
Head Back To Pigalle For... Bed, should you wish. Or the lobby has a great evening atmosphere, so you can also stop for a nightcap (and, on weekends, even a dance). But if you’re after a proper bar setting, there’s Chambre 01 next door – a sexy, sultry and very fun spot with a killer soundtrack and deliciously lethal cocktails.
Day 2
Get Your Morning Pastry Fix With... Literally anything from The French Bastards bakery, down the road from the hotel. Pick up one of their signature cookie rolls to snack on throughout the day. You’ll need the energy, because today, we’re going shopping.
Hop Back On The Métro To... Le Marais. Don’t be put off by public transport in Paris – the underground system is straightforward. Make sure to download the Île-de-France Mobilités app and add your pass to your wallet, where you can top up your account with single journeys for just €2.55 each through Apple Pay. You’ll want to get off in the 3rd or 4th arrondissiment (Le Marais stretches across both), likely at Rambuteau, but it depends on where you want to go. Once you’re there...
Pick Up An Excellent Coffee From... The Marais branch of Café Nuances, which looks more like a concept store-club hybrid and will serves you a coffee strong enough to keep you going till it’s time to hit the club.
Get Your Shopping Fix At... Everywhere you turn. For chic homewares, linens and gifts, you need a trip to the original Merci department store of dreams. There, you can pick up a second-hand French read at its Used Bookstore Cafe. Style lovers will, of course, have The Frankie Shop on their list, along with one of the several Sézane stores (L’Appartement Sézane, right by The Hoxton hotel, another personal favourite), and Oh My Cream! is a must for an expectedly chic curation of French-approved beauty products.
Take A Cultural Time-Out At... Musée Picasso Paris. I go every time I visit the city – tucked in the heart of the Marais, it’s an oasis of calm; an airy space to relax and escape into art.
Stop For Another Croque Monsieur At... Café La Perle, just around the corner. (Yes, daily croques are necessary.) Perch yourself at one of the red and cream outdoor tables and watch the world go by with a vin rouge, before continuing your shopping strolls – Ysé for lingerie, 0fr. for books and Demain Rétro for vintage finds.
Grab A Post-Shopping Pick-Me-Up... Over on Rue de Turenne: there, you’ll find Le Mary Celeste for small plates and an excellent wine selection, Candelaria for street-style tacos (and potent margs at the bar in the back after-dark), or just down the road, there’s Rojo for wines and tapas in perhaps the most aesthetically pleasing setting in the city.
Head East To The 11th... This area is more residential than the Marias, but trust me – there’s plenty of fun to be had: Superfine for cocktails that are as good as the name suggests, wine at Septime La Cave or continue walking up past Bistrot Paul Bert – so good that old French men visit solo for lunch, but they also serve some fun wine options, too.
Have A Next-Level Dinner At... Rives. Honestly, one of the best meals I’ve had in a long time. Expect French dishes, cooked to perfection with a few fun surprises. Start with a homemade pickle apéritif to cleanse your palate before diving into a steak au poivre so tender, the knife cuts through like butter. (Order a side of aligot – very, to-the-point-of-stringy-in-the-best-way cheesy potatoes. Please).
If You’ve Still Got Some Steam Left... Venture five minutes down the road for martinis at Bar Principal. It’s linked to Brutos, the neighbouring restaurant that serves a roast poulet so good that, seven years after I first tried it, I still think about every time I put a chicken in the oven. And if bed still isn’t calling your name...
Head For A Dance... Back in the Marais (it’s on your way home). La Patate Douce is a coffee shop by day, bar by night, and vinyl-fuelled vibes – always.
Day 3
Refuel With... Coffee at the hotel’s dedicated coffee shop next door, Café Pigalle – chances are you’ll need a quick caffeine fix.
Dust Off The Cobwebs... With an extended stroll up to Montmartre. Turn left out of the hotel, then left again and peek into the sex shops lining the street (if you feel so inclined – Pigalle was historically the city’s red light district) before you reach the Moulin Rouge (a champagne-fuelled affair that’s as good as you’d hope). Take a right and head up the gentle shop-lined slope, stopping off at À La Mère De La Famille for traditional chocolates to take home. Let Google Maps guide you up through Montmartre, to the Sacré-Cœur. The entire walk will take you around 30 minutes, but be warned, there are lots of steps. (You can always take the funicular lift from Butte Montmartre or get an Uber up there.)
Take In A View Like No Other... From the steps of the stunning Sacré-Cœur. Listen to the musicians that so often play there as you admire both the cityscape and the architectureof the 19th-century cathedral behind you.
Head Back Down The Hill To... The Métro, and make the 18-minute journey back to Concorde, finishing the trip as you started – well, almost. This time, take a sharp left and mosey your way through to Place Vendôme – home to The Ritz and Cartier, if you’re feeling fancy. Make a right along Rue St-Honoré, and turn left again where you’ll eventually hit the stores-of-the-moment: Polène for leather goods, the aforementioned Merci #2 (on Rue de Richelieu) and the now-famed Lousie Carmen Paris, to create the ‘notebook of your life’. (Tip: the Passage du Grand Cerf store is quieter, and tucked away in the most beautiful setting.)
Then, Spend An Hour Winding Your Way Through Parisan Gems... From Jardin du Palais Royal’s tranquil gardens and striped monochrome pedestals to the peaceful Square Louvois, with its glimmering golden fountain (right by Polène).
Stop For Lunch At... Alfi’s for Italian if you’re all French cusine-d out or Chez Georges for something truly classic. Both are near our final museum stop...
Get One Last Cultural Fix (And, Okay, A Photo Opp) At... Bourse de Commerce. Yes, as social media might have already shown you, what was once the city’s centre of commerce is now a hub for modern art – but it’s better IRL than any TikTok could convey. The circular building’s vast floor-to-ceiling atrium is filled with an incredible Tadao Ando-designed concrete structure, housing rotating exhibitions.
Have One Final Snack At... Le Petit Bouillon Pharamond over by Centre Pompidou for very well-priced French dishes in a gorgeous, tiled setting. There’s also Babylone Bis (down the road) for great African food. Or, we wouldn’t blame you for swinging by the OG Dumbo up in Pigalle, before you collect your bags. Order a burger from the small-but-perfect menu (along with fries and necessary nuggets) and perch on the pavement with the locals for a lowkey last supper. Because great time here is all about following your instincts. And if that leads you to the best smashburger in the city, then that’s the perfect way to close out 72 hours in Paris.
