When December arrives and the festive season comes into focus, the English countryside seems to slip effortlessly into its most romanticised self. Suddenly the rural idyll – so often the backdrop to our favourite Christmas films – feels utterly irresistible. It’s impossible not to think of Kate Winslet’s chocolate-box cottage in The Holiday, all low beams and snow-covered lanes. The idea of sinking into a pub armchair beside a crackling log fire, or losing yourself on a bracing country walk, becomes ten times more alluring at this time of year.
Devon – with its rolling green hills, old-world pubs and cute villages where every window seems lit with a warm, honey-toned glow – embodies this seasonal magic. I recently spent a glorious long weekend there at the family-owned Fowlescombe Farm – a ‘rural retreat’ near the village of Ugborough that felt like the real-life incarnation of Charlotte’s Web. Chickens wander freely as if they own the place, piglets tumble about with the playfulness of puppies and the farm dogs greet you each morning with the kind of enthusiasm that makes you believe you’re part of the family. As an animal lover, I felt I might have stumbled into my own small version of heaven.
Here, you’re staying at the heart of a fully working regenerative farm. It’s not just about cosy nights and fresh country air – though there’s plenty of both – this experience is designed to reconnect guests with the origins of their food. Mornings begin with collecting your own eggs, still warm from the nesting boxes, before heading in for breakfast. You can join farm tours, meet the animals and learn about the regenerative principles that shape their land. It’s an invitation to understand the choices we make when we buy food and the impact those choices have on farming, sustainability and the wider UK landscape.
But aside from spending an arguably excessive amount of time fussing over impossibly cute baby goats, or kids, I should say (and falling in love with Fowlescombe’s handsome black labrador, Basil), I also managed to explore a generous slice of what the rest of wonderful Devon has to offer. The result is a self-curated three-day itinerary – and for this trip, it’s worth noting that having a car (or renting one) is highly recommended...
Day 1
Begin With... A leisurely breakfast at Fowlescombe – one of my favourite moments on the farm. The restaurant is cosy, with an open kitchen that fills the room with all the right smells, and you can customise your plate with just about every cooked breakfast option imaginable. Bliss.
Head Over To... Sandridge Barton Wines. It’s about a 40-minute drive from the farm – a journey that winds you through some of the most quintessentially British countryside: think green fields and hedge-rowed lanes. When you arrive at the vineyard, you can ease into the experience with a coffee or light bite in the café, or head straight out on one of their guided tours. The estate itself is stunning. Along the way, you’ll taste a selection of their award-winning wines and learn about the craft and care behind their production – from soil to bottle.
Lunch At... Roam. Set within the Sandridge Barton estate, Roam is helmed by a team with impressive hospitality credentials. Head chef Sean Blood brings experience from Cafe Boheme in London’s Soho and Soho House Berlin, while front-of-house lead Miles Tuddenham has previously worked at London’s Planque, Noble Rot and St. John. Not one to miss.
Stop Off At... Totnes. You can have a wander round the streets (there are often Christmas markets popping up throughout December) or walk off your lunch with a hike up to Totnes Castle, where you’ll enjoy panoramic views of the town.
Book A Table At... Circa, a small-plates restaurant that aims to respect its natural surroundings and keeps waste to a minimum. The food is impeccable and they have a great list of low-intervention wines and foraged cocktails.
Day 2
Head Out Early To... The seaside town of Salcombe. Along the way, stop off at the South Devon Chilli Farm. It’s a gorgeous farm shop and the home of British chillies! There is also a lovely cafe to have your morning caffeine fix and a light breakfast along the way.
Take The Plunge... With Salcombe Watersports. The water temperature is undeniably bracing at this time of year, but you can easily rent wetsuits to stay warm. They offer kayaking as a more cold-proof way to explore the coastline, or if you like the idea of potentially falling in, you can opt for a paddle board...
Get Your Seafood Fix At... The Crabshed, which sits right on Salcombe’s seafront, offering stunning views alongside a menu of exceptional seafood. From perfectly cooked fish and chips to the town’s famous melt-in-your-mouth crab, every dish celebrates the very best of the local catch.
Walk Off Your Lunch At... Overbeck’s Garden: a hidden paradise with sweeping views over the Salcombe estuary. The gardens are lush – as is the house they belong to, that of 20th century inventor and art collector Otto Overbeck (which, unfortunately for anyone visiting right now, is now closed until early 2026). As a protected National Trust site, it’s a magical spot to explore and linger – especially at sunset, when the light over the water is simply breathtaking.
Grab Some Pub Grub At... The Ferry Inn, the perfect stop before heading back home. For a fuss-free, no-frills dinner paired with a pint and stunning waterfront views, it’s hard to beat this classic Salcombe pub.
Day 3
Fuel Up For A Hike At... Café on the Green in Widecombe-in-the-Moor, a family-run spot that has been welcoming visitors for nearly a century. Their hearty brunch menu has everything you need before setting out on a hike across Dartmoor.
Make Your Way Across The Hills... From Widecombe-in-the-Moor, where there are multiple routes you can take (discover them here). You’ll be spoilt for choice for gorgeous views, as it’s the largest open space in southern England. Make sure to pack supplies with you and make a day out of it, or alternatively you can stop off at the gorgeous Rugglestone Inn for some food and drinks.
Finish Your Trip...With a well-earned dinner at The Refectory at Fowlescombe Farm. The menu shifts weekly, guided by whatever produce is thriving in the garden and which cuts are ready from the farm. Everything is fresh and seasonal – the perfect, cosy way to round off a weekend in the English countryside.
