Auckland rarely gets the credit it deserves. In a country routinely ranked among the most beautiful in the world, the city is often overlooked in favour of Mount Maunganui’s golden beaches or the South Island’s wild, cinematic landscapes. But for me, Auckland has always been one of New Zealand’s highlights. There’s a restless, magnetic energy to the place – the kind that pulls you in and makes it the perfect city to begin, end or linger longer on a trip around the country.
After spending several months living there recently, I had the time to get into the details that really matter: the bakeries worth lining up for, the restaurants locals return to, the galleries, shops and neighbourhoods that give the city its character. With close friends calling Auckland home, I was able to experience it as more than a visitor, slipping into a rhythm that felt distinctly local.
Auckland may be New Zealand’s largest city, but it never feels overwhelming. Instead, it’s refreshingly digestible – big enough to be exciting, yet compact enough to explore with ease. While it’s tempting to base yourself in the CBD, the real magic lies in the surrounding neighbourhoods. Ponsonby, Grey Lynn and Mount Eden are rich with culture, character and excellent places to spend time, making them ideal bases – and hangouts – for a perfectly paced 72-hour visit. The easiest way to get around in the city is by hiring a car or Ubers – the public transport system can be a little unreliable, particularly if you’re used to the efficiency of, say, the London Underground or New York’s subway system.
If Auckland isn’t already on your New Zealand itinerary, it should be – it's now firmly in my top five cities globally. If I only had a short window to explore, this is exactly how I’d spend my time...
Day 1
CHECK INTO... An Airbnb in the Ponsonby area, or alternatively around Grey Lynn or Herne Bay. Aucklanders will tell you (in their droves) that you needn’t venture into the CBD to get the best out of the city – and they’d be right. Ponsonby is the cultural hub when it comes to cool bars, unrivalled dining experiences and creative, artsy vibes. Grey Lynn and Herne Bay are nearby, and while they may not be as youthful and vibrant, have their own charm and plenty to offer. However, if you feel happier staying somewhere super central and prefer a hotel to check into, The Hotel Britomart offers stunning interiors and boutique energy in the CBD.
START YOUR DAY... With a world-famous Auckland flat white. Much to Melburnians’ chagrin, Aucklanders insist they in fact created the delicious coffee. Whoever’s right, both do it exceptionally well – and in this city you have plenty of choices. My favourites include Daily Daily (on Karangahape Road, lovingly referred to as ‘K Road’ by locals) and Mibo (Mount Eden and the CBD), as well as Daily Bread, one of the most popular haunts in the city for baked goods. Visit the one in Britomarket – the biggest – or the outpost in Ponsonby, which in my opinion has the best energy. Enjoy a leisurely drink and indulge in one of their sugared ring doughnuts for breakfast (you are on holiday, after all!).
HAVE A STRETCH... At Sala, Ponsonby’s beloved boutique pilates studio. The stylish space offers reformer classes as well as yoga, sound baths and more, depending on whether fitness or relaxation is your goal. There’s space to enjoy a tea afterwards and chat with new friends.
GRAB LUNCH... Nearby at Bodega (also in Ponsonby), for sensational sandwiches. The Vodka Chicken option (with chicken cutlets, vodka sauce, mozzarella and green sauce) is like Carbone’s bestselling dish in sandwich form. If, like me, you need a sweet treat after every meal, head down the road to Duck Island for their famous ice cream. I am the biggest Duck Island fan, and am desperate for them to expand to overseas as they’re currently only based in New Zealand. The range of flavours is amazing, but my personal favourite is Toasted Marshmallow, which I still often dream about...
GO FOR A BROWSE... Among the fashion and beauty stores along Ponsonby Road. For clothing, New Zealand-born and bred boutique Ruby is a local favourite. Superette also has a great range of Kiwi and Aussie brands, and their accessory selection always draws me in. For beauty, don’t miss Curionoir, a luxury fragrance boutique which offers a sensorial experience like no other. Their creations not only smell divine, but are true works of art.
FINISH YOUR DAY... with some great food and wine. If you want to stay in the heart of Ponsonby, Daphnes and Beau are both great options, with sharing plates, delicious drinks and stylish ambiences. A little further out (but still only less than 10 minutes in the car) is Pici, on K Road. Here, you can enjoy some of the best pasta in the city, paired with the most glorious bottles of wine. If you fancy keeping the night going after dinner, Deadshot in Ponsonby offers fun cocktails in a buzzy location.
Day 2
KICK OFF WITH A COFFEE... At Mibo (a very cute spot with excellent drinks and small, sweet bites) along the waterfront and catch the ferry to Waiheke Island – otherwise known as ‘wine island,’ full of beautiful wineries. When you arrive, take a taxi up to the local township to explore, and walk the beautiful beaches.
SHARE A BOTTLE... Of white or red at one of the island’s many gorgeous wineries. Not only will you experience the best in home-grown talent (New Zealand is known for its incredible wines, of course), the relaxed, chilled-out vibe offers a respite from busy city life. Mudbrick is a classic, where you can enjoy a long lunch and copious amounts of pinot noir while taking in views of the island. For a more relaxed setting, head to Man O’ War, which serves beautiful homegrown elixirs at the northeastern end of Waiheke.
END YOUR DAY... With a late dinner over in Herne Bay, once you’ve hopped back off the ferry. Fishsmith is a small, unassuming chippy that sells the best fish tacos. Grab these to-go and walk down to sentinel bay. After your meal, take a dip and watch the sunset, before heading back to your hotel or Airbnb.
Day 3
FUEL UP... For a busy day at Honey Bones in the Grey Lynn area. This cute little spot does the best brunch (think ricotta pancakes, nourishing bowls and eggs about 6 different ways!), but expect a short wait, as it gets very busy in peak times.
INDUGLE IN... A treatment at The Facialist. If you’re staying in the CBD area, head here before visiting Honey Bones in Grey Lynn, or vice versa. This place is stylish and results-driven, making it the ultimate treat; I can guarantee you’ll leave with a glow. As well as a relaxing facial, you can also shop top skincare brands at the space, including The Facialist’s own-brand range – I love the ‘Glow’ facial oil.
SPEND YOUR FINAL DAY... One of two ways. If the weather is good and you want to do something outdoorsy, head either for a short walk (around a 60-minute round-trip) up Mount Eden for a view over the city, or drive west to Piha for a hike that hugs the beach. Just be aware that it can be a little strenuous, but isn’t too long! If it’s raining or you’d rather do something inside, head to the Auckland Art Gallery, which features some impressive seasonal exhibits and a series of Māori portraits.
FINISH WITH... A visit to Ooh-fa for lunch or dinner, in Mount Eden. The pizzas are consistently incredible, the wine list is small but perfectly considered, and it’s the kind of place you’ll immediately want to return to. Some of my favourite meals in Auckland have been eaten here – the perfect note to end a few days in this special city.
